Église Saint-Germain

Concarneau is a fishing port on the south coast of Brittany, and like most Breton towns it has churches that reflect the deep Catholic tradition of the region. A church dedicated to Saint Germain belongs to this tradition. Saint Germain of Auxerre was a bishop of the fifth century who travelled to Britain to combat heresy and who is honoured in several places in western France. Churches under his name, like others in Brittany, are often built in the local granite, with slate roofs, a bell tower and a plain, sturdy look that suits the exposed Atlantic coast.

Breton churches have features that set them apart. In Finistère, the parish enclosure, the enclos paroissial, is a typical feature, in which the church stands within a walled churchyard, often with a calvary, a monumental carved cross, and an ossuary. Many are richly decorated with granite sculpture from the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries. Even smaller churches may hold carved wooden altarpieces, statues of local saints, painted ceilings and, close to the sea, votive offerings in the form of model ships, left by sailors and their families in thanks for safe returns or in prayer for those at sea. These objects give a church in a fishing town a particular atmosphere.

Religion remains a living tradition in Brittany. Each parish has its pardon, an annual religious festival with a procession, often with traditional costume, banners and music, followed by a festive meal and dances. Concarneau's own festivals, such as the Festival des Filets Bleus, grew from a charitable event for fishermen and their families and still bear traces of that origin, and the Breton language and culture are celebrated in music and dance.

Visiting a parish church in a town like Concarneau is best done in the context of a wider walk. The Ville Close, the walled island at the centre of the town, is linked to the mainland by a footbridge, and its granite ramparts, cobbled streets and shops are among the most visited sights in Brittany. The Old Port, the Vieux Port, lies along the harbour, and the Musée de la Pêche, the Musée du Filet and the Concarneau Aquarium all deal with the maritime heritage. Les Sables Blancs, a long sandy beach, is a short drive or bike ride from the centre, and the Place de la Liberté and the Citadelle are further stops on a stroll. The Pointe du Raz, a dramatic headland, is a longer drive to the west and is often visited as a day trip from the area.

The church suits those who like to see how a community worships and to feel the quiet that characterises many Breton churches. Opening times depend on the parish, and many churches are open only during the day or for services, so it is worth checking at the door or at the tourist office. Dress modestly, keep your voice low, and avoid entering during Mass unless you intend to take part. A visit takes a quarter of an hour, but the surrounding streets reward a longer stroll.