Église Saint-Orens

The Église Saint-Orens in Auch is a nineteenth-century church in the neo-Romanesque style, built on the site of the old seneschal's palace in the upper part of the town, and it is a good example of how the Romanesque revival shaped French church architecture in the century after the Revolution. Auch is the capital of the Gers, in Gascony, a town of broad views and steep streets above the river Gers, and the church stands in the quarter around the Rue du Sénéchal. Saint Orens, to whom it is dedicated, was an early bishop of Auch, remembered in local tradition, and the dedication links the building with the history of the town.

The design draws on the forms of the medieval Romanesque, with rounded arches, thick columns and a calm basilica plan. Inside, the church has three naves separated by large columns, and the proportions are broad and plain. The doors imitate Romanesque models. The effect is simple and solemn, with fewer ornaments than a Gothic church, and the space is well suited to quiet visits.

One of the highlights is the modern stained glass. The windows were made in 1968 by the master glassmaker Henri Guérin, and they add colour to the plain stone, with an abstract and geometric style that contrasts with the historic architecture. The church also has an organ built by the firm of Poirier and Lieberknecht, which is used for a regular series of concerts, so music is part of the church's life as well as worship. Visitors are welcome to look around on their own, without a guide, and entry is free, though visits should be avoided during services.

The real reason many visitors come to Auch is the Cathédrale Sainte-Marie, one of the great cathedrals of southern France, which is a short walk away. It is known for its Renaissance stained glass, made in the early sixteenth century by the master Arnaud de Moles, and for its huge set of carved oak choir stalls, and it is listed by UNESCO as part of the pilgrim routes to Santiago de Compostela. Not far from it, a monumental staircase descends to the river with a statue of d'Artagnan, the Gascon musketeer immortalised by Alexandre Dumas, who is remembered here as a local hero. The Place Marcellin-Berthelot and the Rue des Remparts offer more views of the town.

The Gers is a land of Armagnac brandy, foie gras and rolling hills, and many visitors combine a day in Auch with a tasting at a nearby estate.

The church suits architecture fans and music lovers. Check opening times, which may vary by day, and time for concerts.