Marché de Noël

The Christmas market in Strasbourg is one of the oldest in Europe, with a history that goes back to 1570, when a market called the Christkindelsmärik, the market of the Christ Child, was first recorded in the city. Over the centuries it grew into a major winter fair, and in 1992 Strasbourg began to call itself the capital of Christmas, a title it has promoted ever since. Today the market occupies a dozen or so sites in the old town, with hundreds of wooden chalets, and the whole centre is decorated with lights, garlands and trees, so that the Grande Île feels like a Christmas card from the end of November until Christmas Eve.

The centre of the display is the Place de la Cathédrale, where the stalls cluster around the great red sandstone cathedral, whose single tall spire rises above the roofs. The Place Kléber, the main square, has an immense Christmas tree, one of the biggest in France, glittering with lights and ornaments. Other sites have their own character. The Place Broglie sells traditional crafts and gifts, the Place du Château has a children's theme, and the Place Saint-Thomas, near the Protestant church of Saint-Thomas, holds a market linked to charitable and fair-trade stalls. The Petite France quarter, with its half-timbered houses and canals, is especially atmospheric in the evening light.

What visitors find on the stalls reflects Alsatian tradition. Handmade decorations in glass, wood and straw, candles, nutcrackers and nativity figures are on sale, along with pottery and textiles. The food and drink are a major part of the appeal: vin chaud, or mulled wine, is sold in collectible mugs, and there are small Christmas biscuits known as bredele, flavoured with cinnamon, anise and lemon, spiced gingerbread, pretzels, roasted chestnuts and savoury dishes such as flammekueche, a thin tart topped with cream, onions and bacon. Local specialities such as foie gras, sausages and sauerkraut appear on the menus of nearby restaurants.

The market is free to enter, and it is usually open every day through the season, with hours that run into the evening. Dates and opening times change from year to year, so check the official calendar. It is very crowded, especially at weekends and in the evenings, so go on a weekday or in the daytime if you prefer calm. Wear warm clothes, as the weather can be cold. The Marché de Noël is easy to combine with the other sights of Strasbourg, such as the Palais Rohan, the Musée Alsacien and the Ponts Couverts.

It suits families, couples and anyone who loves Christmas. Many visitors come by train from Paris or other cities, and accommodation books up early, so plan well in advance.