Pont de la Loire

Chinon does not stand on the Loire, though the great river is only a few kilometres away. The town sits on the Vienne, a tributary that flows north to join the Loire near Candes-Saint-Martin, and the bridge that links the old town with the opposite bank crosses the Vienne, not the Loire. The crossing is correctly called the bridge of Chinon, and the setting is rich, so the visit is best understood through the landscape and the history around it.

The bridge leads directly into the old town, which lies in a narrow band between the river and a long ridge of pale tuffeau limestone. The medieval fortress of Chinon crowns the ridge above the town, and from the bridge you see the whole skyline: the long line of walls, the towers and the roofs of the old houses descending to the quay. It is a classic view, particularly at sunset when the stone turns golden, and the reflection in the water doubles the effect. The bridge is walkable and a favourite spot for photographers.

The history of the place is dramatic. Chinon was a stronghold of the Plantagenet kings, and Henry II of England died here in 1189. In 1429, Joan of Arc arrived at the castle to meet the future Charles VII, who was hiding from his enemies, and convinced him to give her command of an army, a decisive moment in the Hundred Years War. The fortress, which stands in three separate parts, is a major attraction. In the old town, medieval and Renaissance houses with timber frames and stone facades line narrow streets, such as the Rue Voltaire, and the Collégiale Saint-Mexme, an old church with Romanesque parts, adds depth. The writer Rabelais grew up in the countryside nearby.

Chinon is also a wine town. The vineyards of the Chinon appellation produce mainly red wines from Cabernet Franc, which can be fruity and fresh when young or complex with age. The tuffeau stone was quarried to build the castles of the region, leaving deep caves that serve as cellars, and the Caves de Chinon can be visited for tastings. Along the river, the Parc de la Loire and the quays make pleasant places to stroll, and the Musée de Chinon and the Musée de la Résistance round out the list of sights.

The bridge is free to cross and can be combined with a walk through the old town in a few hours. It suits history lovers, wine drinkers and photographers. Check the river level before walking along the quay, since the Vienne can flood in winter.