France has tens of thousands of châteaux, with estimates running from about 30,000 to 45,000. Only a small share take guests, and the word covers everything from a five-star hotel to a family's bed and breakfast. Before booking, look at what the property actually is rather than at the word in its name.
Three to start with
- Château de la Bourdaisière, near Montlouis-sur-Loire in the Loire Valley: a 15th-century castle with bed and breakfast rooms, apartments, a restaurant and a seasonal pool.
- Château d'Artigny, in Montbazon near Tours: a five-star castle hotel with a spa and pool.
- Château de Gilly, in Burgundy: a former abbey about 3 km from the Clos de Vougeot, run as a five-star hotel.
Star ratings and prices change, so check the hotel's own site. Château d'Artigny and Château de Gilly belong to the same small French group, Grandes Étapes Françaises.
Hotel or private home
A château hotel works like any other hotel, with reception, a restaurant and fixed services. A family-run château is closer to a guesthouse: fewer rooms, a host rather than staff, and often an arranged dinner, if there is one. Neither is better, but they're very different stays.
If the history matters to you, look for Monument Historique, a real French protection status. It covers the building, not the quality of the stay.
What to check before you book
Old buildings have real limits, and they vary from one property to the next, so ask rather than assume:
- Air conditioning: thick walls help, but ask if you are travelling in summer.
- Lifts: many historic buildings have stairs and uneven floors. Ask about step-free rooms if you need them.
- Rooms: rooms in the main building are often the most atmospheric, while those in outbuildings may be more modern. Ask which you are getting.
- Meals: if the restaurant has limited days, or there is none, you may need a car to go out for dinner.
- Wi-Fi and phone signal: can be weak in thick-walled or rural buildings.
Getting there
Most châteaux are in the countryside, so a car is usually the practical choice. If you are not driving, ask about taxis or a pick-up from the nearest station, such as Tours for the Loire or Dijon for Burgundy, and check how far the nearest restaurant is.