Cap d'Antibes

Cap d'Antibes is the green headland that separates the old port of Antibes from the resort of Juan-les-Pins, and it is among the most exclusive and best-known stretches of the French Riviera. The cape is largely residential, with large villas hidden behind walls, hedges and pine trees, and some of the grandest hotels on the coast. But it is also a place of public walks, small coves and viewpoints, and it can be explored on foot along a coastal path that lets anyone enjoy the scenery. In the early twentieth century, it became a favourite of artists, writers and film stars, and it still has an air of glamour.

The best way to get to know the cape is the Sentier du Littoral, the coastal path that follows the rocky shore for part of its length. A well-known section, sometimes called the Sentier de Tire-Poil, runs between the Plage de la Garoupe and the Villa Eilenroc, a nineteenth-century mansion surrounded by gardens that is open to visitors at certain times. The walk takes about an hour and a half to two hours, with the sea on one side and walls of villas on the other, and the views of the Mediterranean, the coves and, on a clear day, the Alps behind Nice are superb. The path is uneven in places, with rocks and steps, so wear sturdy shoes and bring water, as there is little shade.

Along the way you pass small ports and beaches. The Port de l'Olivette, a little summer harbour, shelters traditional wooden fishing boats known as pointus and is a pleasant place to watch the sunset. Villas along the route have names that recall their original owners, and several are associated with famous residents, including stars of the early days of the cinema, so it is worth asking locally about who lived where, since details of some of the legends are not always certain. On the hill above the Garoupe stand the old lighthouse and the sailors' chapel.

From the cape, the old town of Antibes is a short drive or bus ride away. The Musée Picasso, housed in the Château Grimaldi, a castle on the ramparts above the sea, commemorates the months of 1946 when Picasso worked here, and it shows works he created during his stay. The Marché Provençal fills the market hall most mornings with produce, flowers and food, and Port Vauban, one of the largest yacht harbours in Europe, is a spectacle in itself. The Fort Carré, the Jardin Botanique de la Villa Thuret and the Musée d'Archéologie complete the list of sights.

The cape suits walkers, swimmers and photographers. Go early or late in summer to avoid the heat and traffic, and note that parking can be difficult.