Plage de la Garoupe

The Plage de la Garoupe lies on the eastern side of the Cap d'Antibes, in a sheltered cove between rocky points and pine woods. It is a small beach of golden sand mixed with pebbles, and the water is clear and calm, so it is good for swimming, snorkelling and kayaking. The pines and low cliffs around the cove give it a green, secluded look quite different from the long urban beaches of the French Riviera, and the view stretches across the bay toward Nice and the Alps.

The beach has a place in Riviera history. Until the 1920s, the Riviera was mainly a winter resort for the wealthy, but a group of Americans changed that, among them Gerald and Sara Murphy, who made the Cap d'Antibes fashionable for summer bathing. The Murphys are said to have cleared the shore of seaweed and entertained their friends here, attracting writers and artists such as Ernest Hemingway, F. Scott Fitzgerald and Pablo Picasso, who is remembered at the Musée Picasso in the old town of Antibes. Fitzgerald drew on the cape for his novel Tender Is the Night, and the beaches of the Cap d'Antibes feature in the myth of the Jazz Age.

Today most of the sand is occupied by private beach clubs in the summer season, such as Plage Keller, which offer loungers, parasols and restaurants. Only a small part of the beach is free for the public, so arrive early in July and August if you want a space on the free sand. Outside the high season, from autumn to spring, the clubs close and the beach is much quieter and easier to use.

Above the beach, a path leads up to the Garoupe lighthouse and the sanctuary of Notre-Dame de la Garoupe, a pilgrimage chapel that houses votive offerings left by sailors. The lighthouse cannot be entered, but the hill gives wide views over the Cap, the old town of Antibes and the coastline. The coastal path along the Cap d'Antibes is another good way to see the area, as it follows the rocks and offers swimming spots.

The beach suits couples, families who want calm water, and travellers interested in the Riviera's history. Facilities nearby include restaurants with sea views, which are popular for a drink at sunset. Allow two to three hours, including the walk to the lighthouse, and check opening times for the clubs and restaurants in advance.