Capucins Market

The Marché des Capucins is the main covered market of Bordeaux, and the people of the city call it the belly of Bordeaux, le ventre de Bordeaux, because everyone comes here to shop and eat. It stands on the Place des Capucins, in the south of the old centre, in the working-class district of Saint-Michel, a short walk from the basilica and its tower. The market was established in 1749 by the intendant Marquis de Tourny, who was transforming the city with new squares and avenues, and who wanted a well-organised place for the sale of food. It began as an open-air market on the site of a Capuchin convent, which gave it its name, and was given a covered hall of iron and glass in the 1880s.

The hall is a handsome example of the iron architecture of the late nineteenth century. Slender columns support a high, glazed roof that lets in daylight, and the stalls are arranged in aisles under it, with the busiest part of the market spilling out into the square on the days when additional stalls are put up. The place is open from Tuesday to Sunday, with an early start, around six o'clock on weekdays and half past five at weekends, and the freshest produce is found in the early hours. A few of the stands and restaurants close on certain days, so it is wise to check.

The food is the attraction. The Aquitaine region has some of the best produce in France, and the stalls display it in generous quantities. Seafood is the highlight, with oysters from the Bassin d'Arcachon, shrimp, mussels, fish from the Atlantic and, in season, lamprey, a river fish prepared in Bordeaux with red wine. Butchers sell beef and lamb, charcutiers offer hams and pâtés from the south-west, including duck and goose products such as foie gras and confit, and cheesemongers display the cheeses of the Pyrenees and the Basque country. Fruit and vegetable sellers offer asparagus, strawberries, peaches and mushrooms, while bakers sell bread and the canelé, the small caramelised cake flavoured with rum and vanilla that is the emblem of Bordeaux pastry.

The market is also a place to eat. Small bars and restaurants around the hall serve oysters with a glass of white wine, plates of charcuterie, grilled fish and other dishes, and on Sunday mornings the atmosphere becomes festive, with locals gathering for a late breakfast of oysters and wine. The mood is informal and friendly. Entry is free, and it is a good idea to arrive early, particularly at weekends, as the market is at its busiest and liveliest in the morning.

The market is close to the Basilique Saint-Michel, with its separate tower, and the Sunday flea market, and the Place de la Bourse, the Miroir d'eau, the Cathédrale Saint-André and the Musée d'Aquitaine are within reach. The Cité du Vin, a museum of wine, lies to the north. The market suits food lovers and anyone who wants to see Bordeaux as locals know it.