Cathédrale Saint-Nazaire de Béziers

The Cathédrale Saint-Nazaire-et-Saint-Celse stands on the highest point of Béziers, a rocky spur above the River Orb, and from a distance it looks more like a fortress than a church. Its massive walls, buttresses and battlemented towers dominate the skyline of the old town, and the view from the terrace beside it, which takes in the Orb valley, the old bridge, the plain and, on clear days, the Pyrenees, is among the best in Languedoc. The Gothic building is austere inside and out, a trait that reflects both the troubled history of the place and the architecture of the south of France.

The cathedral's story is tied to one of the darkest episodes of the Middle Ages. In July 1209, during the Albigensian Crusade against the Cathars, the crusader army took Béziers and massacred a large part of its population. The Romanesque cathedral that stood on this spot was burned and badly damaged in the sack, and the city was left in ruins. Rebuilding began in the thirteenth century, and the church we see today is the result of campaigns that continued into the fifteenth century. The site had earlier been occupied by religious buildings, and it was already the centre of the city's worship in late Roman times.

Inside, the nave is wide and high with a plain, restrained look, and the Gothic vaults are supported by strong piers. The cathedral's treasures include an organ case, stained glass and chapels with altarpieces and paintings, although the main impression is one of volume and simplicity rather than decoration. A cloister adjoins the church, and one of its walks was never completed, which explains why you will find a partly built garden court. The bishop's garden, the Jardin des Évêques, lies just below and offers another view of the river and the town.

Béziers has other notable sights within a short walk. The Old Bridge, the Pont Vieux, crosses the Orb and gives the classic view of the cathedral above the water. Paul Riquet, the engineer behind the Canal du Midi, was born in Béziers, and the canal's famous flight of locks at Fonséranes is just outside the city. The Allées Paul Riquet, a tree-lined promenade, leads to the Place de la République, the Musée des Beaux-Arts and the Arènes, where the Féria de Béziers fills the city each August with bullfighting, music and street celebrations. The Église Saint-Pierre and the Porte Narbonnaise are further stops in the old town.

The cathedral suits those interested in medieval history and architecture and is an easy stop on a day in the old town. Allow around an hour, longer if you like the views. Visiting hours vary and the church may be closed at lunchtime, so check locally before you go. Plan the visit for the early evening if you can, when the light turns the stone gold and the walk up the old streets is cooler. Wear comfortable shoes, since the lanes climb steeply and the pavements are uneven.