Église Saint-Pierre

Béziers is one of the oldest towns in France, with a history that reaches back to Greek and Roman times, and its churches record a long and often violent past. The old town stands on a hill above the River Orb, crowned by the cathedral of Saint-Nazaire, and the streets below it hold several parish churches, among them one dedicated to Saint Peter. It is best understood as one of a town's many neighbourhood places of worship, set among larger and better-known monuments.

Most visitors begin with the cathedral, a Gothic fortress-church on the edge of the plateau, with a terrace that looks out over the river, the old bridge and the plain. Close by is the Église de la Madeleine, one of the town's oldest churches, which is linked with the darkest event in the town's history. In July 1209, during the Albigensian Crusade, the crusading army captured Béziers and massacred a large part of the population, including many who had sought refuge in the churches. The event shaped how the town remembered itself for centuries, and its memory is part of the visit. The Église Saint-Aphrodise, another ancient church with an old crypt, honours the saint said to have brought Christianity to the area.

A church dedicated to Saint Peter fits into this landscape of streets and squares. Churches in the Languedoc are often built in local stone, with robust walls, small windows to keep out the heat and an austere interior that reflects the Mediterranean setting. Inside, one can expect a plain nave, side chapels with statues and altarpieces, and a quiet atmosphere. Parish churches often open for services and for a limited period during the day, so visitors may need to check the times at the church door or at the tourist office.

Béziers has several other sights close to the old town. The Pont Vieux, a medieval bridge over the Orb, offers the classic view of the cathedral. The Allées Paul Riquet, a long tree-lined promenade named after the engineer of the Canal du Midi, who was born in the town, leads to the Place de la République and the theatre. The Arènes, the town's bullring, is the focus of the Féria de Béziers each August, when the town fills with music, bulls and street celebrations. The Musée des Beaux-Arts and the Porte Narbonnaise are other places to visit, and the Plateau des Poètes is a landscaped park. Just outside town, the Fonséranes locks on the Canal du Midi, a long flight of locks that lifts boats up the hillside, are a major attraction.

The church suits visitors who enjoy exploring old towns and looking in on neighbourhood churches. A visit takes only a few minutes, but a walk through the old centre can fill a morning. Early morning and the evening are best for light and cooler air in summer, and the streets are steep, so wear comfortable shoes.