Caveaux de l'Abbaye Saint-Germain

The abbey of Saint-Germain in Auxerre is one of the great early Christian sites of Burgundy, and its underground crypts, the caveaux, are among the oldest and most remarkable in France. Auxerre, on the Yonne river, was the home of Germain, a Roman official who became bishop of the city in the early fifth century and was famous as a preacher and a protector of the poor. He died in 448, and a burial place was built for him on the edge of the town. Over the centuries a church, then a Benedictine abbey, grew up around his tomb, which became a major place of pilgrimage. The abbey buildings are mostly of later periods, and the church combines Romanesque, Gothic and classical elements.

The real treasure is the crypt. Under the abbey church, the Carolingian crypts date from the ninth century, from the time when the abbey was rebuilt under the patronage of the Carolingian court. They consist of a series of small vaulted chambers and corridors around the tomb of the saint, and the walls bear wall paintings of the ninth century, among the oldest in France that survive in place, with figures and scenes painted in earthy reds, ochres and greens. The passages are dim and low, and walking through them gives a strong sense of how medieval pilgrims approached a saint's tomb. The excavated remains of the destroyed western church can also be seen on the site.

The abbey buildings also house the Saint-Germain Museum, an official Musée de France, set in the monastic buildings, including parts of the cloister and chapter house. The collections cover Gallo-Roman archaeology from Auxerre, which was a Roman town called Autessiodurum, and medieval art and objects. A precious item is a piece of silk textile associated with the saint, the shroud of Saint Germain, dating from the tenth century, which is among the museum's treasures. The scriptorium section shows how manuscripts were copied and illuminated in the medieval abbey.

The abbey is open daily, in the morning and the afternoon, with a break for lunch, and is a recognised stop for cyclists on the cycle routes of Burgundy, with the Accueil Vélo label. Entry is charged, and guided visits of the crypts are common, so check what is offered on the day.

The crypts suit lovers of early medieval history and art, and visitors interested in pilgrimage. The tall bell tower, the Tour Saint-Germain, rises above the old town, and the Collégiale Saint-Étienne, the cathedral of Auxerre, is a short walk away. The Théâtre d'Auxerre and the old quays of the Yonne are nearby. Allow one to two hours.