Collegiate Church of Saint-Quintin

The Collégiale Saint-Quiriace is the great church of the upper town of Provins, in Seine-et-Marne, and it is often listed in tourist material under a garbled form of its name. It stands on the hill of the Ville Haute, near the Tour César, and its dome is visible across the town. Provins was one of the main towns of the Counts of Champagne, and in the twelfth and thirteenth centuries it hosted the Champagne fairs, among the largest trade fairs in medieval Europe, which brought merchants from Italy, Flanders and beyond. The town's medieval centre is inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List as an example of a fair town.

The church was founded in the twelfth century under the Counts of Champagne, in connection with relics of Saint Quiriace, a martyr of the early Church, which gave the church its name and its status as a collegiate church, served by a community of canons. Building began at the east end, in the Gothic style that was spreading from the Île-de-France, and the choir, with its pointed arches, high windows and slim columns, is among the most graceful parts. Work then moved west, but the money ran out, partly because the fairs declined in the fourteenth century, and the nave was never finished as planned. The west front was left incomplete and has no towers, and an older Romanesque element is visible in some parts of the structure, giving a mix of styles.

The building's most unusual feature is the dome. When the central tower, which rose above the crossing, fell in the seventeenth century, the church had it replaced with a classical dome rather than a Gothic tower, and the result is a landmark that recalls the style of Paris churches rather than a medieval cathedral. From a distance it gives the church a characteristic outline.

Inside, the church is spacious and filled with natural light, and the simple, tall proportions of the nave and choir give a feeling of calm. It is a place of worship and also a monument, so visitors should be quiet and respectful, and some areas may be closed during services. General monument opening in Provins runs from late March to the end of the All Saints holidays, typically from morning to early evening, but hours for the church itself can vary, so check the schedule.

The church is a short walk from the Tour César, the great keep of the town, the Grange aux Dîmes, the ramparts and the Underground Galleries. The Saint-Corneille Crypt, the Maison des Templiers and the streets of the medieval town give plenty to see, and the Provins Medieval Festival in summer fills the town with costumed performers. Provins is also famous for its roses, and rose jam and sweets are sold in the shops. The church suits lovers of medieval architecture and visitors who want to see Provins beyond the main show.