Underground Galleries

Provins, in the Seine-et-Marne department east of Paris, is a small walled town that was one of the great trading places of medieval Europe, and it appears on the UNESCO World Heritage list as a well-preserved example of a fair town of the Champagne region. In the twelfth and thirteenth centuries the Counts of Champagne organised fairs here and in a few other towns, which drew merchants from Italy, Flanders and across Europe, and Provins grew rich on cloth and trade. Beneath the town lies a network of underground galleries, which is a quieter attraction than the ramparts and towers above it.

The galleries are artificial cavities cut into the limestone and clay of the hill. Their origin is not completely settled. The most widely accepted explanation is that they began as quarries for fuller's earth, a clay used to clean and thicken wool in the cloth industry that was Provins's main business, so the underground rooms are linked to the town's prosperity. Over time they were used for other purposes. In the Middle Ages merchants stored goods in them during the fairs, and in troubled times they served as hiding places for people and valuables. Some were used for religious worship, and the walls carry carved crosses and graffiti left by visitors over centuries. In all there are several hundred rooms in the Upper Town and dozens in the Lower Town, although only a small part can be visited.

Visits are by guided tour only, with a small group limited to about twenty-five people, to protect both visitors and the fragile galleries. The guide explains the purpose of the galleries and leads you through narrow passages and vaulted halls, with lights to show the carved details. The temperature inside stays at about 13 degrees Celsius all year, so bring a warm layer even in summer, and wear shoes with a good grip, since the floor can be uneven and damp. The tours are given in French, and some are in English, so check the language when you book. Schedules differ by season and are busier at weekends and in school holidays, so book ahead. Families can follow a treasure hunt using a free app.

Above ground, the Tour César, a twelfth-century keep that overlooks the town, the Collegiate Church of Saint-Quiriace and the Grange-aux-Dîmes, a medieval tithe barn, are all worth seeing, and in June the town holds a large medieval festival. Provins is also known for its roses, which according to legend were brought back from the Crusades.

The galleries suit curious travellers, families with older children and those interested in medieval history. Allow about an hour for the tour.