Collégiale Saint-Mexme

Chinon is a small town on the banks of the Vienne river in the Touraine, known for its castle, its red wines and its medieval streets, and the Collégiale Saint-Mexme is the town's oldest religious building. It stands in the old town, a short way from the river, and its history reaches back to the early Middle Ages. It is not a large or polished monument, and its charm lies in its age and in the way it has survived through centuries of change, so that visitors with an interest in early medieval architecture find it a rewarding stop.

The church is dedicated to Saint Mexme, a hermit of the fifth century who is said to have settled in the area and to have founded a small religious community. His memory attracted pilgrims, and a church was built over the site of his oratory. The surviving buildings date from the tenth and eleventh centuries, when a collegiate church was established, and they are among the oldest structures in the town. The west part of the church preserves the remains of a Romanesque facade and towers from the eleventh and twelfth centuries, and the sturdy walls, round arches and small windows are typical of the architecture of the period. Later centuries added Gothic elements, and the building has been altered many times.

The Revolution was hard on the collegiate church. Its community was dispersed, parts of the buildings were demolished or sold, and the church fell into disuse, which is why some parts are ruined or incomplete. In recent decades, the remains have been the subject of archaeological study and restoration, which has revealed the history of the site and allowed the town to present it to visitors. The interior, with its robust stone, rhythmic arches and plain surfaces, gives an impression of solidity and stillness, and some of the oldest masonry in the region can be seen here.

Chinon has plenty to see around the church. The Château de Chinon, a fortress overlooking the town, was the favourite residence of the Plantagenet kings, and Henry II of England died here in 1189. In 1429, Joan of Arc came to the castle to meet the future Charles VII and persuade him to let her lead an army against the English. The old town, the Vieux Chinon, has narrow streets lined with half-timbered houses and stone mansions from the Middle Ages and the Renaissance, and the Musée de Chinon and the Musée de la Résistance tell the town's story. The Vienne river and its old bridge offer a pleasant promenade.

Chinon is also a wine town. The vineyards of the appellation, planted mainly with Cabernet Franc, produce red wines of elegance and freshness, and the caves of the town, tunnels cut into the limestone hillside, are used for ageing and tasting. The writer François Rabelais was born near Chinon, and the town celebrates him each year. The church suits history and architecture lovers, and a visit takes around half an hour. Check locally for opening times, as access may be limited.