Maison de la Vézelay

The Maison du Visiteur, the visitor centre of Vézelay, is the first stop for anyone who wants to make the most of a day in this hilltop town in northern Burgundy. It stands near the Place Adolphe Guillon, close to the lower end of the main street, and it offers maps, brochures and information about the sights, events and walks in the area, as well as advice on where to eat and stay. The centre is open on most days of the week, with a break at midday, but it is closed on Wednesdays and on Sundays, with extra closures on Sundays in July and August, so check the hours before you go.

Vézelay is small, and its main sights are packed into a short stretch of ridge, so a visit takes a few hours on foot. The street climbs from the lower town to the basilica, past old houses, craft shops and galleries, with the town's ramparts and gates at the sides and views over the valley. The Basilica of Sainte-Marie-Madeleine at the top is one of the masterpieces of Romanesque architecture, with a long nave of alternating pale and dark stone, carved capitals and a great portal. It was restored in the nineteenth century by the architect Eugène Viollet-le-Duc, who was given the task by the inspector of historic monuments, Prosper Mérimée, after the building had fallen into a poor state. The basilica and the hill were inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage list in 1979.

The centre also helps to explain the history of the place. Vézelay was a major pilgrimage destination in the Middle Ages because of the relics of Mary Magdalene, and it was the starting point of the Via Lemovicensis, one of the routes to Santiago de Compostela. In 1146 Bernard of Clairvaux preached the Second Crusade here to a vast crowd, and the town is still associated with that event. In the summer, the centre takes part in heritage programmes that train young guides, so you may meet student guides who explain the stones and sculpture, a way of passing on knowledge to the next generation.

Beyond the basilica, the staff can recommend walks to the viewpoint over the Morvan, to the vineyards of the Vézelay appellation, and to the Château de Bazoches, the home of Vauban, a short drive away, and they have details of the Musée de Vézelay and other visits. It is also the place to ask about parking, as there is little space at the top.

The visitor centre suits first-time visitors, families and walkers, and it is best used at the start of the visit.