Place de la Halle

Vézelay is a hill town in the north of Burgundy, in the Yonne department, built along a single ridge that rises above the valley of the Cure river. The ridge is crowned by the Basilica of Sainte-Marie-Madeleine, one of the greatest Romanesque churches in France, and the whole village and basilica were inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage list in 1979. The Place de la Halle belongs to the lower part of the village, where the ascent begins, and it is a practical starting point for exploring the town.

The village owes its existence to the basilica. From the ninth century the abbey claimed to hold the relics of Mary Magdalene, and pilgrims came in large numbers to venerate them. Vézelay became one of the great gathering points of medieval Christendom. In 1146 Bernard of Clairvaux preached the Second Crusade here before a huge crowd, and in 1190 the kings Philip Augustus of France and Richard I of England met at Vézelay before leaving for the Third Crusade. The town is also the traditional starting point of the Via Lemovicensis, one of the four main French routes to Santiago de Compostela, and many walkers still set out from here with a scallop shell on their backpack.

From the lower part of the village, the main street climbs steeply toward the basilica, lined with old stone houses, craft shops, galleries and cafés. The paving is uneven, and the slope is demanding, so allow time and wear comfortable shoes. Parking is mostly at the foot of the hill, where it is easier to leave a car, and there is little space near the top. Taking a break at a terrace halfway up gives a view of the roofs and the valley.

At the top, the basilica's great nave, with its alternating pale and dark stone arches and its carved capitals, is the highlight, and the crypt holds a reliquary of Mary Magdalene. Behind the church, a terrace and the old ramparts give views of the Morvan hills and the surrounding vineyards. The Vézelay vineyards produce white wine from Chardonnay, and there are also tasting opportunities in the area. The Musée de Vézelay and the remains of the fortifications are other points of interest.

The square is public and open at all times. It suits visitors beginning the walk up to the basilica, pilgrims and anyone seeking a base for exploring the medieval town. Visit early in the day or in the evening to avoid the crowds that arrive in the high season.