Plage de la Grande Mer

The Plage de la Grande Mer is the main beach of Cassis, a small stretch of pebbles and sand that lies directly beside the harbour, so that a swim can be fitted easily between a morning market and a long lunch. The name, meaning the big sea, distinguishes it from the little beaches farther along the coast, and it is the beach most people picture when they think of this Provençal fishing port: a curve of fine gravel, a row of small boats and, behind it, the colourful houses of the old village with the rocky hill and the castle above.

The beach is easy to reach. It is a few minutes' walk from the centre of Cassis and the quays, and there is no need for a car, which is useful because parking in the village is limited and often full in summer. The sand and fine gravel are comfortable to lie on, and the water is clear and shallow near the shore, which is why the beach suits families with children. Lifeguards watch over the bathers in the main season, showers and toilets are provided, and there are lockers for belongings. The beach is cleaned daily, and a nearby café or restaurant on the seafront offers a place for refreshments. The orientation, facing the bay, means that it is sheltered from some winds, though when the mistral blows, the wind can be strong.

The setting is dramatic. To the east, the cliffs of Cap Canaille rise sheer from the sea, the highest maritime cliffs in France, and their red and ochre colours glow at sunset. To the west lie the white limestone inlets of the Calanques, part of a national park, and boat trips leave from the harbour next to the beach to visit them. The trip is a good way to see the cliffs and the clear turquoise water from below. For those who prefer walking, paths lead into the Calanques, but in summer access to some may be restricted because of fire risk or crowding, so check before setting off.

Cassis offers more to do after a swim. The port is lined with restaurants serving bouillabaisse and other fish dishes, and the village has a market on certain mornings, with stalls of produce, herbs and crafts. The Musée de Cassis presents local history and art, and the vineyards on the slopes behind the village produce the Cassis white wine, one of the oldest appellations in Provence, a perfect partner for seafood. Other beaches, such as the Plage de Bestouan, are within walking distance, and offer a quieter alternative.

The beach suits families, couples and anyone who wants to combine a swim with a village stroll. It is busiest in July and August, especially at midday, so arrive early or in the evening for a calmer atmosphere. Entry is free, and the swimming season runs from late spring to early autumn. Bring water shoes if you find pebbles uncomfortable, and a sunshade, as there is little natural shade.