Port de Cassis

The port of Cassis is a small fishing harbour on the Mediterranean coast between Marseille and Toulon, and it is one of the prettiest in Provence. Pastel houses in yellow, pink and ochre line the quay, with their shutters and wrought-iron balconies, and behind them the village rises up a hillside toward the ruins of a medieval castle. Fishing boats and pleasure boats fill the basin, and cafés and restaurants spread their tables along the waterfront. The poet Frédéric Mistral is said to have remarked that anyone who had seen Paris without seeing Cassis had seen nothing, a line that the village is happy to repeat.

The harbour is overlooked by the Cap Canaille, a headland of red and ochre rock, which at 394 metres is the highest sea cliff in France. It dominates the view to the east of the village, and the colours of the rock change with the light, from orange in the morning to deep red at sunset. A road along the cliff top, the Route des Crêtes, runs from Cassis toward La Ciotat and offers some of the most spectacular views on the coast, though it is sometimes closed in high winds or fire risk.

The main reason visitors come is the Calanques, the steep limestone inlets that cut into the coast between Cassis and Marseille, which form the Calanques National Park. Boats leave from the port to tour the nearest of them, Port-Miou, Port-Pin and En-Vau, where turquoise water is enclosed by white cliffs, and the trip is a good way to see them if you do not want to hike. The calanques can also be reached on foot by paths from the village, and the walk to En-Vau is long and steep. In summer, access to some of them is regulated, and fire restrictions can close the massif, so check conditions before setting out. Swimming, kayaking and diving are popular in the clear water.

Cassis is also a wine village. Its vineyards produce white wine, along with rosé and red, and several estates welcome visitors for tastings, while restaurants serve fresh fish, including bouillabaisse. A market is held in the village on certain days. The Musée de Cassis, the lighthouse and the Église Notre-Dame-de-la-Garde, as well as the Plage de la Grande Mer, are all close to the port, and the Grotte de la Baleine is a rock formation shaped like a whale.

The port suits couples, families, walkers and boat lovers. It is busy in July and August, so go early or in the evening.