Port de Plaisance

The old port of Bastia is a compact harbour in a natural inlet on the north-east coast of Corsica, and it is the part of the city where most visitors spend their evenings. The name Port de Plaisance, meaning pleasure port, refers to its modern role as a marina for sailing boats and small craft, but it is also the Vieux Port, the historic harbour that gave the city its reason to exist. Bastia takes its name from the bastiglia, the fortress that the Genoese built here in the late fourteenth century to protect their hold on the island, and for centuries the town was the Genoese capital of Corsica.

The quays are lined with tall buildings in warm, faded tones, ochre, terracotta and salmon pink, with shuttered windows and iron balconies that rise directly from the water. The colours reflect in the still harbour and give the view an almost theatrical look, particularly in the late afternoon. At the southern end of the harbour, the twin bell towers of the Church of Saint-Jean-Baptiste rise above the roofs, a baroque church with a rich interior that dominates the scene. The area is largely pedestrian, and the quayside is a pleasant place for a slow stroll in any season.

Restaurants and cafés occupy the ground floors of the buildings, many with terraces facing the boats, and they serve seafood and Corsican specialities, from grilled fish to local charcuterie and cheeses. Ice-cream stands, bars and small shops add to the life of the waterfront. In the evening the port fills with people, locals and visitors alike, and the atmosphere is cheerful and unhurried. A full loop of the harbour takes about a quarter of an hour on foot, though most people take longer, since there is always a reason to stop.

Above the port, the old Genoese district called Terra Nova, with its Citadelle, stands on the high ground, and a short climb through steep lanes brings you to ramparts and viewpoints with a view over the harbour and the sea toward the island of Elba on a clear day. The Place Saint-Nicolas, a large seafront square nearby, is a popular place for a walk and a drink. The market at Place de l'Hôtel de Ville adds a taste of daily life, and the ferries that leave from the new port connect the city with mainland France and Italy.

The port suits couples, food lovers and anyone who wants to feel the character of a Mediterranean island city. Evenings are best, when the light softens. Summer is busy, and restaurants fill early, so book ahead in season.