Vieil Antibes (Old Town)

The old town of Antibes is a compact, walled quarter on a rocky promontory between the port and the sea, and it has some of the oldest roots of any place on the French Riviera. The Greeks of Marseille founded a trading post here in the fourth century BC, calling it Antipolis, the city opposite, because it faced their colony of Nikaia, now Nice, across the bay. The Romans took over, and a Roman town grew on the site, followed by a medieval bishopric. Over the centuries Antibes became a border stronghold. Until 1860 the river Var, a few kilometres to the east, divided the Kingdom of France from the County of Nice, which belonged to the house of Savoy, and Antibes was the French frontier town. For that reason it was strongly fortified, above all by Vauban, the engineer of Louis XIV, who rebuilt the port defences and the Fort Carré on its hill.

That military history explains the character of the old town. Its houses are tall and tightly packed, its streets narrow and winding, and passages run between the buildings, with arches and steps, so that the whole quarter feels like a small maze. The ramparts that run along the sea still stand, with a promenade along the top that gives views across the water to the Alps and to Nice, and the stones have a golden warmth in the late afternoon. In the centre of the old town stands the Château Grimaldi, which houses the Picasso Museum, and next to it the cathedral, Notre-Dame de l'Immaculée Conception, with its Provençal bell tower.

The most lively place is the Marché Provençal on the Cours Masséna, a covered market that sells fruit, vegetables, flowers, cheese, olives and local specialities almost every morning in summer, and is often named among the most beautiful markets in the region. Around it are narrow streets with restaurants, galleries and small shops. Antibes also has a strong artistic past, with Picasso working here in 1946, and a modern one, with an antiques fair, the Salon des Antiquaires, held each year in the town.

A short walk from the old town leads to Port Vauban, a large marina, one of the oldest and biggest on the Mediterranean, where superyachts are moored. Events such as Les Voiles d'Antibes, a regatta of classic sailing yachts held in early summer, and the Fête de la Saint-Pierre, a festival of the fishermen, bring life to the port.

The old town is public and open at any time. It suits walkers, lovers of history, art and food, and photographers. Allow half a day. Beyond the walls, the Cap d'Antibes, the Garoupe beach, the Villa Thuret botanical garden and the Musée d'Archéologie are good additions.