Vieux Village (Old Village)

Saignon is a small village in the Luberon, perched on the edge of a limestone ridge above the valley of the Calavon, not far from the market town of Apt. It stands at a height of several hundred metres, and the old village climbs up the slope in a tight group of stone houses, steep lanes and little squares, with the ruins of a medieval castle and a rocky crest above it. The setting gives it a strong character: from many corners, you can see the valley below, the orchards and vines, and the long line of the Luberon mountain beyond.

The village is free of the crowds that gather at some of the more famous Luberon villages, and that is part of its appeal. Its lanes are narrow, with little traffic, and the houses are built of pale local stone with old doors and wooden shutters. Small fountains and washing places recall an older way of life when water had to be shared, and the Place de la Fontaine, with its central basin, is the natural meeting place, with a café and shade. The Romanesque church of Notre-Dame-de-Pitié stands in the upper village and has a simple, solid shape, and the stones of the ruined château above give a sense of the village's defensive past.

The best-known walk leads up to the Rocher de Bel Air, a rock outcrop above the village that offers a wide panorama over the Luberon and the plain. From here you can follow the shape of the ridge and trace the villages scattered over the slopes, and on a clear day the view extends toward Mont Ventoux. The path is short but steep, and the stone can be slippery, so wear shoes with good grip. Other trails lead from Saignon into the surrounding countryside, through scrub and woods, and into the quiet valleys.

Saignon also gives a taste of local life. Small restaurants and guesthouses serve Provençal food, and in summer, the evenings are warm, with the scent of thyme and pine in the air. The village is part of the Luberon Regional Natural Park, and several signposted paths link it with Apt and neighbouring hamlets. The Château de Saignon and the Fontaine du Village and Point de Vue du Rocher, named among the local points of interest, are all easy to reach on foot.

A visit takes an hour or two, longer if you walk to the rock and back. It suits walkers, photographers and anyone who prefers a quiet village to a busy one. Summer is hot, so aim for morning or late afternoon.