Vignobles d'Alsace (Alsatian Vineyards)

The vineyards around Riquewihr form one of the best-known stretches of the Alsace Wine Route, a road that follows the foothills of the Vosges for about 170 kilometres, from the north of the region to Thann in the south. Riquewihr, in the Haut-Rhin, is often called the Pearl of Alsace, and the village is surrounded by vines that climb the slopes above its walls. It is a walled medieval town that kept its look largely intact, partly because it belonged for centuries to the dukes of Württemberg, and in later periods it escaped much of the damage that hit other towns.

The landscape owes its character to the Vosges. The mountains shelter the vineyards from Atlantic weather, so Colmar and its surroundings are among the driest places in France, and the sunny, dry autumns allow grapes to ripen slowly and keep their acidity and aroma. The soils are unusually varied, a patchwork of granite, limestone, marl, clay and sandstone, and growers match each grape to the plot. This is the reason Alsace makes such a wide range of wines from a small area.

The region is known for white wines made from single grape varieties and labelled by name, which is unusual in France. Riesling is the flagship, usually dry and mineral in Alsace, and Gewürztraminer gives aromatic, spicy wines. Pinot Gris is rich and full, while Muscat, Sylvaner and Pinot Blanc are lighter, and Pinot Noir is the main red. Sparkling Crémant d'Alsace is made throughout the region. Two Grand Cru sites, Schoenenbourg and Sporen, lie on the slopes of Riquewihr, and the region has more than fifty Grand Cru vineyards in all.

Visitors can walk through the vines on marked paths from the village, taking in views of the rooftops and the plain of the Rhine. Many small family estates offer tastings, either in cellars in Riquewihr itself or in the surrounding villages. The Maison du Vin gives an introduction to the wines of the area, and the old streets, such as the Rue des Marchands, with its half-timbered houses, are worth a slow walk. The town gates and ramparts, including the Tour des Voleurs, add to the medieval atmosphere, and the Église Saint-Nicolas sits within the old centre.

The harvest in September and October is a lively time, and village wine festivals take place in late summer and autumn. In December the region's Christmas markets draw many visitors. Colmar lies a short drive away, so the vineyards fit easily into a day trip. A car or bicycle helps in the hills, and if you plan to taste, a designated driver or a taxi is a good idea. The vineyards suit wine lovers, walkers and anyone who enjoys picturesque villages.