Abbaye de Baume-les-Messieurs

The abbey of Baume-les-Messieurs lies at the bottom of one of the Jura's most dramatic valleys, a reculée in which limestone cliffs rise on three sides and a stream flows out through the open end. The setting is secluded, quiet and green, and the group of ancient buildings at the foot of the cliffs gives the village an unusual atmosphere. Baume was a monastery from the early Middle Ages, and the name of the village includes Messieurs to distinguish it from Baume-les-Dames in the Doubs, where the community was made up of nuns. Here, the monks were noblemen, and the abbey was so important that it was directly under the protection of the Holy Roman Emperor, which is why it is called the imperial abbey.

The abbey played a part in one of the great stories of medieval Europe. In the early tenth century, Bernon, a monk and abbot who had been trained at Baume, founded a new monastery at Cluny, in Burgundy, with the support of Duke William of Aquitaine. Cluny grew into the largest and most influential monastic house in Christendom and the centre of a reform movement that shaped medieval religion, so Baume can claim a place as one of its distant sources. For centuries the abbey in the Jura remained wealthy, and its community of nobles governed the village and the surrounding lands.

The buildings visible today show different periods. The abbey church, with its tall, plain stonework, stands beside the cloister and the other monastic buildings, some of which are open to visitors. Inside the church, a set of fine sculpted woodwork and a large carved altarpiece of Flemish origin, dating from the early sixteenth century, are among the treasures, and they show the connections between the Jura and the wealthy cities of the Low Countries. The restored buildings now host temporary exhibitions and cultural events, and visitors can explore parts of the monastery using an audio guide. A shop and other facilities are available, and the abbey is open on a seasonal timetable.

The village of Baume-les-Messieurs is itself one of the most beautiful in France, with old houses around the abbey and lanes that lead into the valley. Close by, the Grotte de Baume-les-Messieurs, an active river cave, and the waterfalls of the valley add natural interest, and the Parc de la Source and the Vallée de l'Ain offer pleasant walks. The long-distance path network passes through the area.

A visit takes an hour or two. It suits history lovers, walkers and anyone interested in medieval monasticism. Check the opening hours and ticket prices before you go, since they change with the season.