Belle Époque Villas

Dinard sits on the western bank of the Rance estuary, facing the walled town of Saint-Malo, and its seafront is lined with villas that tell the story of the resort's golden age. Until the middle of the nineteenth century Dinard was a small fishing village. After English and American visitors began to build holiday homes here from the 1850s, it grew rapidly into a fashionable resort, and by the end of the century the town had become one of the most exclusive in Europe, attracting aristocrats, industrialists, artists and royalty. Most of the villas date from between about 1870 and 1914, the period known as the Belle Époque, and nearly four hundred of them are preserved and protected today.

The buildings are the work of many architects and owners, and they show an unrestrained variety of styles. Some borrow from medieval castles, with towers and battlements, others from Anglo-Norman half-timbering, Palladian classicism or the Art Nouveau of the early twentieth century. Brick, granite and carved wood are combined with ironwork, coloured tiles and stained glass, and many have gardens running down toward the sea. Their names are often inspired by birds, plants or places on the coast, and they reflect the tastes of owners who wanted to show off their wealth and a love of the sea. The best-known example is Villa Les Roches Brunes, which is protected as a historic monument, and which sits on the rocks above the water, in a style that mixes Gothic and Renaissance influences with the picturesque. It is not open every day, but welcomes visitors during cultural events.

The pleasure of a visit is in walking along the coast. The Promenade du Clair de Lune, the moonlight walk, runs along the seafront near the Plage de l'Écluse, the town's main beach, with its rows of striped bathing tents, and it gives views over the estuary to Saint-Malo, particularly lovely at dusk. The path continues around the headlands, with the villas above on one side and the sea on the other, and it passes the Plage du Pâquis and the Quai des Indes. The town's Casino and the Église Saint-Sauveur are close by, and boats cross the Rance to Saint-Malo in a few minutes. The artist Pablo Picasso spent a summer in Dinard in the 1920s, and the town holds a British film festival each autumn, reflecting its long links with Britain. The Anglican church of Saint Bartholomew, built for the British community, is another reminder of the early visitors.

Viewing the villas from the street costs nothing and takes around two hours on foot at an easy pace. Interiors are rarely accessible, but the tourist office organises guided tours at certain times, and heritage days offer extra openings. The walk is best in the morning or in the evening, when the light is warm. It suits anyone who likes architecture, seaside strolls or the atmosphere of a resort that has kept its Edwardian elegance.