Île de Cézembre

Cézembre is a small island in the bay of Saint-Malo, roughly four kilometres from the shore, which can be seen from the ramparts of Saint-Malo and the beaches of Dinard. It is only about a kilometre long, but its past and its natural character make it one of the more unusual destinations on the Emerald Coast. A boat crossing of about twenty minutes from Saint-Malo or Dinard brings you to the island, where the main attraction is a long sandy beach on the sheltered south side, which is considered one of the warmest and brightest in Brittany. With clear water and fine sand, it is a popular spot for a summer swim.

The island is a nature reserve, and its rocks and heathland are a refuge for seabirds, with gulls, cormorants and other species nesting on the less visited parts. Wild flowers grow on the thin soil, and the only buildings are a few ruins and a seasonal restaurant at the beach. There is no shelter from rain or sun, no shop and no running water, so visitors bring their own picnic, water, sunscreen and a hat. Dogs are not allowed on the beach, and the toilets are of the dry type.

The island's history is the other reason to come. During the Second World War the Germans turned Cézembre into a fortified position, with guns, bunkers and observation posts, to defend the approaches to Saint-Malo. After the Allied landings of 1944, the garrison on the island refused to surrender when Saint-Malo fell, and the island was subjected to heavy bombardment from the air and the sea, including the use of napalm, for several weeks. The defenders finally surrendered at the start of September 1944. The surface of the island was left scarred and contaminated, and a large part of it is still closed because of unexploded ordnance. Remains of blockhouses and gun emplacements can be seen from the marked paths, and a visit gives a sense of how heavily the island was fortified.

Because of the risk, visitors must stay on the signed paths and the beach at all times and avoid straying into fenced or unmarked zones. Boats run during the summer season, with a daily service in July and August on most days and a reduced timetable of weekends and holidays in the shoulder months. Crossings depend on the tides, so check the timetable and book ahead. The island is closed in winter. A day trip is usually from late morning to late afternoon.

Back on the mainland, Dinard's Belle Époque villas, its casino and the Plage du Pâquis, and the walled city of Saint-Malo are good for extending the trip. The island suits families, history lovers and swimmers who want a quiet beach, and it is best on a calm, clear day.