Calvi Cathedral (Cathédrale Saint-Jean-Baptiste)

The Cathédrale Saint-Jean-Baptiste stands on the highest point of the Citadelle de Calvi, the Genoese fortress that rises on a rocky headland above the bay of Calvi in north-west Corsica. From the sea, the dome and bell tower mark the top of the walled town, and from the cathedral square you look out over the ramparts, the harbour and, on a clear day, the snow-streaked peaks of the Corsican interior behind the town. For centuries Calvi was a loyal outpost of the Republic of Genoa, and the town's motto, Civitas Calvi semper fidelis, still appears on the gate.

The church that stands today was rebuilt in the late sixteenth century after the earlier building was badly damaged in 1567, when an explosion of gunpowder stored in the citadel destroyed part of the town. The exterior is plain, in local stone with a modest facade, so the interior comes as a surprise. It has a Baroque plan, laid out in the form of a Greek cross, and it is crowned with a dome. The space is bright and the decoration includes altars of coloured marble, painted ceilings and carved woodwork typical of Genoese taste in the seventeenth century. Several of the side chapels hold altarpieces and statues given by local families.

One of the most venerated objects is the dark wooden crucifix known as the Christ des Miracles. Tradition says that it was carried in procession when the town was besieged in the sixteenth century, and that the town was saved, which is why it holds a special place in local devotion. It features in the Good Friday procession in Calvi, one of the main religious events of the year, when brotherhoods in robes carry sacred images through the narrow streets of the citadel. The religious traditions of the island, expressed in polyphonic singing, are also kept up in the cathedral on feast days.

The cathedral is a working church, so visiting hours are not fixed and depend on services. Entry is free, and you should dress modestly and keep quiet when services are in progress. The visit itself is short, about twenty to thirty minutes, but it makes most sense as part of a walk through the citadel, with its steep lanes, old houses and views from the ramparts. A house in the citadel is claimed by local tradition to be the birthplace of Christopher Columbus, a story that Calvi promotes though it is disputed by other places.

Below the citadel lies the Port de Plaisance, with its cafés and restaurants and the long beach beyond it. In summer the area fills with visitors, so early morning or late afternoon visits to the cathedral are quieter. It suits travellers interested in Corsican history, Baroque art and the traditions of the island.