Citadelle de Calvi

The Citadelle de Calvi sits on a rocky promontory above the sea in north-west Corsica, and it is the most striking sight of the Balagne coast. The walls rise straight from the rock, with the old town enclosed inside them and the mountains of the interior forming a backdrop that is often topped with snow in spring. Calvi began as a small settlement, and in 1268 a Genoese captain fortified the headland. From then until the eighteenth century the town was a stronghold of the Republic of Genoa, and its bastions, gates and houses all bear the mark of that period. The town's motto, Civitas Calvi semper fidelis, always faithful, was given for its loyalty to Genoa when it resisted attacks, notably in the sixteenth century.

The citadel has seen many sieges. The Franco-Turkish forces besieged it in 1553 and Spanish forces threatened it, and in the summer of 1794 the British laid siege to Calvi during the short-lived Anglo-Corsican kingdom. Horatio Nelson, then a captain, took part in the operations and lost the sight of an eye from stones thrown up by an enemy shot. Napoleon Bonaparte has a connection too: his godfather, Laurent Giubega, came from Calvi.

Visitors enter through the main gate under the old porch. A small contemporary art museum under the entrance porch is open to the public, and the cobbled lanes lead up to the governor's palace, which is now used by the Foreign Legion, whose paratroopers are based in Calvi. Houses of Genoese style, with narrow fronts and balconies, line the streets, and an oratory dedicated to Saint Anthony, built in the sixteenth century, and the cathedral of Saint-Jean-Baptiste stand within the walls. A house in the citadel is claimed as the birthplace of Christopher Columbus, and a plaque marks the ruined building, though the claim is disputed by other places, mainly Genoa.

The ramparts offer the best views. From them you look across the bay, the marina and the long sandy beach, and over to the mountains. The tourist office has an audio guide in several languages that covers a number of the landmarks and brings in the history of the town, with music, and families can follow a treasure trail for children. A walk around the walls takes about an hour. Entry to the citadel itself is free and the lanes are open throughout the year, though individual sites may have limited hours. In summer the citadel is a venue for concerts, and the festival of jazz in July brings many visitors.

Below the walls the Port de Plaisance and the waterfront have restaurants and cafés, and the beach stretches for kilometres toward the pine forest. The citadel suits anyone interested in military history, photographers and visitors who enjoy old stone towns.