Cap Ferret Peninsula

The Cap Ferret peninsula is a long finger of sand and pine forest that separates the Bassin d'Arcachon from the Atlantic Ocean. It points south toward the pass through which the tides enter the bay, and across that channel the Dune du Pilat rises in the distance, so the view from the tip is among the best on the coast. The peninsula belongs to the commune of Lège-Cap-Ferret and has long been a summer retreat, with holiday villas hidden among the trees and a relaxed seaside atmosphere that sits somewhere between fishing village and chic resort.

The peninsula has two faces. On the ocean side, there are wide, wild beaches of fine sand, backed by dunes and pine woods and exposed to strong waves and currents, so swimming needs great care and supervised areas are the safe choice. On the bay side, the water is calm and shallow, and the shoreline is dotted with small villages built around oyster farming. Names such as L'Herbe, Piraillan and Le Canon belong to a string of hamlets where oystermen work from wooden huts and sell oysters, which can be eaten on the spot with a glass of white wine, usually with only a lemon and some bread and butter. Oyster farming has shaped life here for generations, and the visible beds near the jetty show how the tides are used.

The Cap Ferret lighthouse stands near the southern end and is the best-known landmark. The present tower was rebuilt after the Second World War, and visitors can climb its stairs to a gallery with a panorama over the ocean, the pass, the bay and the Dune du Pilat. A short way offshore sits the Île aux Oiseaux, Bird Island, a low island in the middle of the bay that is partly covered at high tide, and known for its stilt cabins, called tchanquées, and for the birds that nest there. Boat tours from the peninsula pass close by.

Cycling is a good way to see the area, since many tracks run through the forest, and bikes can be hired near the tip. Many visitors arrive by boat from the Jetée Thiers in Arcachon, a crossing that takes about half an hour and lands at the Jetée Bélisaire, which saves driving the long road down the peninsula in summer traffic. The oyster farms of Arcachon, the market in the town and the Dune du Pilat make a natural group of day trips.

The peninsula suits families, cyclists, food lovers and walkers. In high season the roads are busy, so go early or visit outside July and August, and check ferry times and tide tables before you set out.