Île aux Oiseaux

The Île aux Oiseaux, or Bird Island, lies in the middle of the Bassin d'Arcachon, the inland sea on the Atlantic coast of south-west France, and it is one of the most distinctive landscapes of the bay. The basin is a shallow lagoon of tidal flats, channels and sandbanks connected to the ocean by a narrow passage, and the water level changes dramatically with the tide. The island sits in the sheltered part of the basin, close to the port of La Teste-de-Buch, and from a distance it appears as a low, green island of reed and salt meadow that is partly flooded at the highest tides.

The island is known for two things. The first is its wildlife. The mudflats, salt marshes and eelgrass beds of the bay provide food and shelter for very large numbers of birds, and the island is a refuge for many of them. Waders and ducks gather here in large flocks, brent geese spend the winter on the eelgrass beds around the basin, and in the summer terns and other seabirds nest in quieter corners. The island's salt meadows, flooded by the sea at high tide, support specialised plants that tolerate salt water. The area is protected as part of the marine natural park of the Bassin d'Arcachon, and the aim is to keep disturbance to a minimum, so the visitor experience is mainly about observing from a distance rather than walking freely over the land.

The second feature is the Cabanes Tchanquées, a group of wooden huts raised on stilts above the marsh at the edge of the island. The name comes from the local word for stilts, tchanque. The huts were built in the nineteenth century as lookouts for the guards of oyster parks, who kept watch over the farms from a height, so that they could see the flats and the boats from above. They have become a symbol of the bay and are among its most photographed sights, though they are private property and are not open to visitors.

The usual way of seeing the island is from the water. Tour boats leave from Arcachon, La Teste-de-Buch and other ports of the bay, and they cruise past the island and the oyster farms, with commentary about the birds and the oyster industry. Departure times depend on the tide, so check the schedule. It is best to take binoculars, a hat and a windproof jacket. Because opening arrangements and permitted landings change, the tourist office of La Teste-de-Buch is the best source of current information.

Other places to visit in the area include the Dune du Pilat, Europe's highest sand dune, the Cap Ferret peninsula, with its oyster villages and lighthouse, and the oyster farms themselves, where you can taste fresh oysters. The island suits birdwatchers, photographers and those who like quiet landscapes.