Cathédrale Saint-Jean-Baptiste

The Cathédrale Saint-Jean-Baptiste stands at the foot of the Fourvière hill, in the middle of Vieux Lyon, beside the Saône river, and it is the seat of the archbishop of Lyon, who holds the historic title of Primate of the Gauls. Work began around 1170 to 1180, and building continued for about three centuries, so the cathedral combines the round arches of the Romanesque style in the choir with the pointed arches of the Gothic nave and a flamboyant Gothic west front added in the fifteenth century. The stone is pale and golden, and the interior feels bright and open compared with many French cathedrals.

The building has been the scene of important events. Two general councils of the Church were held in Lyon in the thirteenth century, in 1245 and 1274, and both took place here. Pope John XXII was crowned in the cathedral in 1316, and in December 1600 King Henri IV married Marie de' Medici here. During the religious wars of the sixteenth century, Protestant troops damaged the church, and the Revolution brought further destruction to the sculpture on the facade, but the structure survived and has been restored.

The astronomical clock in the north transept is the most famous object inside. It dates from the fourteenth century, though it was rebuilt and altered later, and it is a complex machine that shows the time, the date, the phases of the moon and the movements of the heavens. At set times during the day, mechanical figures perform, with a cockerel crowing and angels sounding, which draws a crowd, so arrive a few minutes early to see it. Other treasures include stained glass windows from the twelfth to the fifteenth centuries, among the oldest in the region, carved capitals, paintings, tapestries and organs. In the Bourbon chapel, a sculpted stone canopy is among the finest examples of late Gothic carving.

The cathedral is open every day, with guided visits offered in several languages, though tours may not run on Mondays, so check the schedule. It is accessible to visitors using self-propelled wheelchairs. Allow one to two hours.

The cathedral suits lovers of medieval art and architecture and anyone who wants to understand the history of Lyon. It lies in the old town, which is listed by UNESCO, and the funicular to the Basilica of Notre-Dame de Fourvière starts from the station beside it. The Musée Gadagne and the Rue Saint-Jean are close.