Vieux Lyon (Old Lyon)

Vieux Lyon is the old quarter of Lyon, spread over a narrow strip of land between the Saône and the foot of the Fourvière hill. It is one of the largest Renaissance districts in Europe, and together with the slopes of Fourvière and the Presqu'île it forms the Historic Site of Lyon, inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage list in 1998. The area was among the first in France to be protected under the Malraux law of 1962, which was passed after the idea of demolishing parts of the quarter for a road scheme sparked protests and led to the creation of the country's first protected historic sectors.

The district is divided into three quarters: Saint-Jean, around the cathedral, Saint-Paul to the north and Saint-Georges to the south. In the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries Lyon was a major banking and trading city, with Italian bankers and silk merchants, and their money built the tall houses along the narrow streets. Many have courtyards with staircase towers and galleries in the Italian style, reflecting the influence of Florence on Lyon's merchants. The facades are painted in warm ochre, pink and yellow tones, and the cobbled lanes are best explored on foot.

The quarter is famous for its traboules, covered passages that run through buildings and link one street to the next. Originally they allowed silk workers to move their goods quickly and keep them dry, and some served as hiding routes in the Second World War. Several can be walked by the public through doors that are open during the day, including a long one that links Rue Saint-Jean with Rue du Bœuf, and the Tour Rose courtyard on the Rue du Bœuf is a popular stop. Please be quiet, because these are private buildings where people live.

The Cathédrale Saint-Jean-Baptiste, whose construction ran from the twelfth to the fifteenth century, is the main monument, with an astronomical clock inside that is a draw at set times. The Église Saint-Georges stands at the southern end of the quarter, and the Musée Gadagne, in a Renaissance mansion, tells the story of the city and holds the puppet museum. A funicular from the station near the cathedral takes you up to the Basilica of Notre-Dame de Fourvière, with a wide view over the roofs.

Vieux Lyon is also a place to eat. Its traditional restaurants, the bouchons, serve Lyon's classic dishes such as quenelles, sausages and the salade lyonnaise, though quality varies and booking is wise in the evening. The streets are public and open at any hour. It suits history lovers, food lovers and anyone with a few hours to wander.