Cathédrale Saint-Nicolas

Nice has a long history as a winter resort for European aristocrats, and the Russian community was among the most visible of them. The Cathédrale Saint-Nicolas is the monument that survives from that era, a Russian Orthodox church standing among the villas and apartment blocks north of the town centre on the avenue that bears the name of Tsar Nicholas II. Its green and blue onion domes, red brick walls and coloured ceramic details look more like a scene from old Moscow than from the Côte d'Azur, and the contrast is the reason many visitors come.

The church was built in the early twentieth century. Work began in 1903 and the cathedral was consecrated in 1912, funded in large part by the Russian imperial family, including Tsar Nicholas II and his mother, the Dowager Empress Maria Feodorovna, who wintered in Nice. The architect was Mikhail Preobrazhensky, who drew on the churches of Moscow and Yaroslavl from the seventeenth century for his design. The plan is centred on a cross, with a cluster of domes and a tall bell tower. It was built to serve the large Russian colony that settled in Nice in the nineteenth century, drawn by the mild climate and the elegance of the town.

The interior is richly decorated in the Orthodox tradition. A tall iconostasis, the screen of icons that separates the nave from the sanctuary, is carved and gilded, and the walls and vaults are covered with painted scenes. Icons, carved woodwork and fine metalwork fill the space, and the light of candles adds to the effect. Orthodox churches are traditionally without pews, and visitors will notice that the services are conducted standing. The building is both a museum and an active place of worship, so dress modestly, keep your voice low, and be aware that photography may be restricted inside.

The cathedral is a short distance from the main tourist routes, and it pairs well with a ride up to the Cimiez hill, where the Musée Matisse and the Musée Marc Chagall are located, or a walk to the sea. The Promenade des Anglais, the Place Masséna and the Colline du Château are the town's best-known sights, and the Musée d'Art Moderne et d'Art Contemporain (MAMAC) offers modern art in the town centre. The old town and the flower market are close to the sea, near the Jardin Albert 1er, a short tram or bus ride away.

The cathedral suits travellers interested in architecture, religious art and the history of the Riviera. A visit takes up to an hour, and the quietest times are weekday mornings. Opening hours change with the liturgical calendar and services, so check ahead before travelling across town. Because it is a very different style from the rest of Nice, it makes a memorable stop even for those who do not usually visit churches, and the garden around it is a pleasant spot to pause.