Cathédrale Saint-Théodorit

Uzès is a small hill town in the Gard, and its skyline is marked by a slender round bell tower that rises beside the Cathédrale Saint-Théodorit. The tower is known as the Fenestrelle, a name that refers to the rows of arched openings on its upper floors. It dates from the twelfth century and has six storeys, each lighter than the one below, with windows that grow from small slits at the base to paired openings at the top. A round Romanesque campanile of this kind is rare in France and recalls the towers of northern Italy, which makes it one of the most distinctive medieval monuments in Languedoc.

The cathedral beside it has a layered history. A church from the first centuries of Christianity is thought to have stood on this hill, and the site has long been associated with an earlier Roman sanctuary. The church takes its name from Saint Theodoritus, a bishop of Uzès in the sixth or seventh century, according to local tradition. For most of its history it was the seat of the bishops of Uzès, and the town was an important ecclesiastical centre until the diocese was suppressed after the Revolution. In the sixteenth century the Wars of Religion brought destruction to many churches in the region, and Uzès suffered badly. The cathedral was damaged and then rebuilt in the seventeenth century, and the revolutionary period stripped its furnishings. Only the Fenestrelle escaped, as the one medieval part that was left standing.

Inside the church, the nave is broad and light, in a classical style that reflects the rebuilding, and the instruments and furnishings are modest compared with those of larger cathedrals. The organ is a treasured instrument and an important feature, and music is occasionally played in the building, so ask at the tourist office about concerts. Because the church is in regular use, visits are limited during services, and entry is free outside them. The tower is the highlight of the visit as seen from the outside.

The cathedral stands in the old centre, close to the Duché, the great residence of the dukes of Uzès, whose title is among the oldest dukedoms in France. From the square nearby, cobbled lanes lead down to the Place aux Herbes, the arcaded market square that comes alive on market days, and to the Vieux Pont and the town's gardens. The Musée d'Art et d'Histoire d'Uzès is a short walk away. Pont du Gard, the famous Roman aqueduct bridge, is about twenty kilometres from the town and fits well into a day trip.

Plan on thirty minutes to an hour to see the church and tower and to walk around the exterior. The visit suits lovers of medieval architecture, travellers who enjoy small towns and anyone exploring the Gard.