Place aux Herbes

Place aux Herbes is the social centre of Uzès, a small hill town in the Gard between Nîmes and Avignon. The name, meaning Herb Square, points to its ancient role as the town's market, a role it still plays today. The square is irregular in shape and surrounded by arcades, with plane trees casting shade over café terraces and the stone houses rising above them in warm, honey-coloured tones. In the local sun, the arcades are a welcome place to stand, and they have long been used to shelter market stalls and strollers alike.

The square has gone by other names over time, including Place Royale, and these changes reflect the political history of France. The medieval town grew up around the ducal castle, and Uzès held the title of the first duchy of France, a status that left the town with fine mansions and an air of aristocratic calm. The square lies in the core of that old town, a few minutes' walk from the Duchy itself and the cathedral.

The liveliest times are the market mornings, on Wednesday and Saturday. Stalls fill the square with fruit, vegetables, olives, cheeses, cured meats, lavender, herbs and local crafts, and the pavement cafés fill with locals who arrive for coffee and conversation. On Saturday the market grows to cover much of the old town. Arrive before ten if you want to see it at its best and find a table, and bring a bag for your purchases. On other days the square is calmer, with restaurant terraces serving lunches in the shade.

The Place aux Herbes is also a good starting point for a walk around the old town. The Cathédrale Saint-Théodorit and its tall Romanesque bell tower, the Tour Fenestrelle, are close by, as are narrow lanes lined with boutiques and galleries. The Musée Georges Borias covers local history. The Pont du Gard, the great Roman aqueduct, is a short drive from Uzès and makes a natural excursion; the aqueduct once carried water to Nîmes from a spring close to Uzès.

The square suits couples, families and food lovers, and it works well as a base for a morning out. In summer, evenings bring music and long dinners under the arcades; in winter, the town is quieter and the market is more local. Staying in or near the square means you can enjoy the lively morning atmosphere and then escape to the quiet lanes when the crowds have gone.