Château de la Barben

The Château de la Barben stands on a rocky spur above the village of La Barben, in the Bouches-du-Rhône department of Provence, about 25 kilometres from Aix-en-Provence, at the edge of the hills that lead toward the Luberon and the Alpilles. It is one of the most impressive castles in the region, a mass of towers and terraces rising over the valley of the Touloubre river, and it has a long history that runs through the Middle Ages, the Renaissance and the classical age.

A fortress stood on the site from the eleventh century, and in the later Middle Ages it was strengthened as a frontier stronghold. In the fifteenth century, King René of Anjou, the cultured ruler of Provence, favoured the castle and made it a country residence, a place for hunting and for pleasure, so the building began to change from a fortress into a more comfortable home. In 1474 the estate was bought by the Forbin family, who would hold it for nearly five hundred years, until the twentieth century. The Forbins were an important family of Provence, and several of its members served as admirals, courtiers and governors. In the seventeenth century, they transformed the castle into an elegant residence, with new apartments and formal gardens, which tradition attributes to the royal garden designer André Le Nôtre, and the terraces and the geometric layouts still show the French style. The castle is protected as a monument historique.

Today, the château is a visitor attraction with a cultural programme. It holds a permanent exhibition, and organised tours, themed around different periods and aspects of its history, take visitors through its rooms and terraces. The grounds are used for live shows in the style of the Puy du Fou park, with spectacles of comedy, stunts, horse riding and sword fights, aimed at families and told in the setting of Provençal history. The estate is also known for the zoo in the park, which has long been a feature of the site. The season generally runs from spring to autumn, with opening on most days, and there is a restaurant with both cooked dishes and takeaway food.

The castle is easiest to reach by car, since the nearest train station is a distance away, and there is parking for cars and coaches. It suits families with children, history lovers and visitors who want a lively day out near Aix. Check the season dates and the show programme before you go.