Château de la Tour d'Aigues

La Tour d'Aigues is a small town in the Luberon, on the Vaucluse side of the Durance valley, and its château is one of the most striking Renaissance ruins in Provence. The grounds are on a different side of the Luberon from Aix-en-Provence, about half an hour's drive north, so this is a day-trip site rather than a stop within the city. A fortified house stood here in the Middle Ages, but what you see today dates mostly from the sixteenth century, when the lords of the place rebuilt it as a palace in the Italian manner, with regular wings, large windows and decorated stonework.

The most memorable feature is the monumental entrance. The great portal is shaped like a triumphal arch, with classical columns, niches and carved decoration, an unusual sight in rural Provence and a statement of how ambitious the owners were. Beyond it, the courtyards and ranges give a sense of the original plan, even though much of the building is a shell. The château was burned during the French Revolution, and the fire left walls open to the sky, empty window frames and rooms that no longer have floors. It is the ruined state that gives the visit its drama, because the stone staircases, vaulted passages and fireplaces stand exposed in the light.

Parts of the site have been consolidated and reopened. Underground, the cellars and service vaults have been restored and form a cool route that visitors can follow, and some of the restored rooms are used for exhibitions. The château also hosts a display on local faience, the glazed pottery that was made in the town in the eighteenth century and later became a regional speciality. The museum and cultural programme change over time, so the exact exhibitions are best checked in advance.

The view from the walls takes in the village roofs, vineyards and the long line of the Luberon hills, and the surrounding countryside is good for slow walking or cycling. The town itself has a market and café terraces, and nearby villages such as Lourmarin and Ansouis offer more châteaux and stone lanes.

It suits architecture lovers, photographers and anyone who likes a ruin that still tells a clear story. Wear sturdy shoes, since floors are uneven and steps are steep in places, and check seasonal opening times before you set out.