Jardin Botanique des Planes

Aix-en-Provence is a city of fountains, plane trees and shaded squares, and its green spaces are a large part of why it feels so livable in summer. The Jardin Botanique des Planes belongs to this tradition of quiet gardens, where the Mediterranean climate shapes everything that grows. It is a place for slow walking rather than sightseeing in the strict sense, and it offers a break from the busier streets around the Cours Mirabeau and the Quartier Mazarin.

A garden in this part of Provence is built around plants that cope with hot, dry summers and mild winters. Expect olive trees, cypresses, pines and holm oaks, together with aromatic shrubs of the garrigue such as rosemary, thyme, lavender and cistus, whose scent is strongest on warm afternoons. Many botanical gardens in the south of France also grow species from other Mediterranean-type regions, including South Africa, California and Australia, as these have similar growing conditions. Plant labels, where present, make the garden a useful place to learn the names of the plants you see in the surrounding hills.

Water plays an important role in the Aix landscape, and gardens here often include basins, small fountains or channels. Their sound and the shade of mature trees make the temperature feel several degrees cooler than on the streets. Benches along the paths invite a long pause, and the garden is a favourite place for locals to read, walk and meet friends, which gives it a calm, residential character rather than a tourist one.

The garden is easy to combine with other sights in the city. The Cathédrale Saint-Sauveur, the Musée Granet, the Fontaine de la Rotonde and the Hôtel de Ville are all within a pleasant walk of the centre, and the Atelier de Cézanne, the painter's studio on the hill north of the old town, shows the landscape that inspired him. Cézanne spent his life painting the Montagne Sainte-Victoire and the countryside around Aix, and a stroll through a Mediterranean garden is a good way to get a feeling for that light and vegetation. Further out, the Château de la Barben and the Château de la Tour d'Aigues are possible day trips.

Spring, when the plants flower, and autumn, when the heat has eased, are the best seasons. In midsummer, go early in the morning or in the evening. The garden suits families, plant lovers, painters and anyone looking for a quiet green corner in Aix. Opening hours vary by season, so it is wise to check locally before you set out.