Marché d'Aix-en-Provence

Markets are central to daily life in Aix-en-Provence, and the city has several, each with its own character and setting. They operate in different squares of the old town, and together they form one of the best-loved routines of the region. For visitors, a morning at the market is an easy way to see how Provençal food culture works, to taste local products and to experience the city's squares at their liveliest.

The fruit and vegetable market on the Place Richelme is the best known, and it runs every morning. Stalls are laid out in a tight square close to the Hôtel de Ville, with growers selling seasonal produce that changes through the year: apricots, melons, strawberries, tomatoes, peppers, courgettes, figs and many varieties of olives. Producers also bring goat's cheese, olive oil, honey from the garrigue, lavender products and cured meats. The atmosphere is brisk, with vendors calling out and shoppers comparing prices, and the market is at its best before midday.

Larger general markets take place on certain days of the week in other squares, including the Place de Verdun near the law courts, which has food and clothing stalls, and the Place des Prêcheurs. A flower market fills the square in front of the Hôtel de Ville in the mornings, with roses, lilies, orchids and potted plants. Together, these markets give an excellent view of local life, with residents shopping for the week and chatting with the stallholders they have known for years.

The city's most famous sweet is the calisson, a small diamond-shaped candy made of almond paste and candied melon with a glossy icing, and you will find it in shops and on stalls around the markets. Nougat, jam, syrups, and wines from the surrounding vineyards also make good gifts. Many market stalls offer tastes, so ask if you want to try something before you buy it. Remember that the produce is perishable, so the market suits picnic supplies and a hotel breakfast better than long trips.

The markets are a good starting point for a walk through the old city. From Place Richelme you can reach the Cours Mirabeau, the Cathédrale Saint-Sauveur, the Quartier Mazarin and the Musée Granet in a few minutes, and the Fontaine de la Rotonde marks the edge of the old town. It is wise to go early, wear comfortable shoes and keep an eye on your belongings in the crowds. Opening days and times change, so confirm them locally before planning a visit around a particular market.