Château des ducs de Bourgogne

Arbois is a small wine town in the Jura, at the foot of the first plateau, and the history of the area is closely tied to the Burgundian rulers of the Franche-Comté. In the Middle Ages and the fifteenth century, the lands around here belonged to the counts of Burgundy, and from the late fourteenth century the dukes of Burgundy held them as well, which is why a castle in the town can carry their name. Do not confuse this place with the ducal palace in Dijon, which is a grand building in a large city. In Arbois the remains are modest, and few precise details about the castle's layout can be stated with confidence today.

What can be said with more certainty is how the town itself is set. Arbois lies along the Cuisance, a small river that runs through the middle of town, and the Pont de la Cuisance is a pretty spot, with old houses and mills on both banks. Above the roofs rises the tall bell tower of the church of Saint-Just, a landmark that can be seen from the surrounding vineyards. The Place de l'Hôtel de Ville is the lively centre, with its arcades and cafe terraces, and the Parc de la Combe provides a green space on the edge of the old town.

The real draw of Arbois is wine. The Jura produces unusual wines that are different from those of Burgundy or the Rhône: vin jaune, aged under a veil of yeast for years in the barrel, the sweet straw wine called vin de paille, and light reds made from local grapes such as Poulsard and Trousseau. Arbois was one of the first four places in France to receive an appellation d'origine contrôlée, in 1936. The Musée du Vin et du Pays Arboisien, housed in the Château Pécauld, tells the story of the vineyards and the local way of life.

The town is also known as the place where the scientist Louis Pasteur spent his childhood and returned to work, and his family house and laboratory are open to visitors. Close by, the reculées, or deep dead-end valleys, of the Jura offer waterfalls and cliffs for short walks.

A stop at the château site is best treated as a short pause in a wider walk through the old town, not as a main attraction. It suits wine lovers, walkers and anyone who likes small towns with a strong local flavour. Because the remains are slight and the site details are uncertain, check locally for access and for signs explaining what survives.