Château du Haut-Ribeaupierre

The Château du Haut-Ribeaupierre is the highest of the three ruined castles that look down over Ribeauvillé, in the foothills of the Vosges, and it sits on a wooded ridge at an altitude of roughly 640 metres. It is also known by its German name, Hohrappoltstein, and it belonged to the lords of Ribeaupierre, who were among the most powerful noble families in Alsace and who ruled the town and the surrounding lands for centuries. Of the three castles, it is the one most associated with the family, and its ruins give a sense of the strength and independence of a medieval lord in this border country.

The oldest parts of the castle are thought to date from the twelfth century, though most of what remains was built in the thirteenth century, when the family reoccupied the height and built a new fortress on the rock. Over the following centuries, the castle was repaired, altered and used for different purposes. At times it served as a lookout post, and at times as a prison for the district. It was gradually abandoned as the family moved to more comfortable residences lower down, and it fell into ruin, though its main walls and a round tower are still visible and still dominate the skyline. The ruin includes the remains of a drawbridge and a deep cistern, which show how the garrison obtained water and how access was controlled.

Visiting the castle is an excursion rather than a short stop. The path climbs steeply through the forest from the town and takes around an hour on foot, with views opening between the trees over the vineyards and the plain of Alsace as you gain height. The walk is demanding, particularly in hot weather, so wear good shoes and bring water. The ruins are open to explore, but conditions vary: some walls and towers are unsafe, access to certain parts such as the round keep is not permitted, and visitors enter at their own risk. Check the current situation before you set out, as some sources indicate that access may be limited.

Many walkers combine the three castles, Saint-Ulrich, Girsberg and Haut-Ribeaupierre, in a single walk of two or three hours, on a trail that runs along the ridge and gives different views of Ribeauvillé and the plain. The vineyard slopes below produce Riesling and Gewurztraminer, and the town offers wine tastings, and the Musée du Pain d'Épices and the Maison du Pain d'Épices explain the local gingerbread tradition. The town's Remparts and the Sentier des Vignes also provide shorter walks.

The castle suits fit walkers, history lovers and photographers. Go in the morning, in dry weather, and respect the safety signs.