Remparts (Town Walls)

Ribeauvillé is a medieval wine town at the foot of the Vosges, and its ramparts are part of the framework that gives the old centre its shape. The town was the seat of the lords of Ribeaupierre, who ruled it from the three castles above, and in the later Middle Ages, it was enclosed by walls, gates and towers to protect the merchants and winegrowers who lived below. Over the centuries, many sections were demolished or built over, and what survives today is a partial circuit, with gates, towers and stretches of wall that can be seen along the streets and between the houses. The result is not a continuous fortress but a collection of landmarks that mark the town's edges.

The best-known survivor is the Tour des Bouchers, the Butchers' Tower, which stands in the middle of the Grand'Rue and dates from the thirteenth century. It was once a gate in an earlier line of walls, and it now carries a clock and a belfry, with a roof of coloured tiles. It is one of the symbols of the town and is easily recognised. Other towers and gates mark the entrances to the old town at its upper and lower ends. The old description of these walls mentions a river called the Lauter, but that is a mistake, since the Lauter flows at Wissembourg, far to the north; Ribeauvillé's own stream, the Strengbach, runs through the town and was once used by tanners and mills.

Walking along the line of the walls, you pass a succession of old houses with half-timbered facades, tiled roofs, courtyards and carved doorways, some of them built against the old defences. The lanes are narrow and cobbled, and the town has retained its atmosphere of an Alsace wine village. From the upper end of the town, the three castles, Saint-Ulrich, Girsberg and Haut-Ribeaupierre, can be seen on the hill above, and paths lead up through the forest.

The town's other attractions are close by. The Église Saint-Martin, the Maison du Pain d'Épices and the Musée du Pain d'Épices, which deal with gingerbread, the Sentier des Vignes and the Vineyards of Ribeauvillé are easy to reach on foot. In September, the Pfifferdaj festival fills the streets with medieval music and costume.

The ramparts are free to see and are open at all times. A walk takes an hour or so, depending on how many stops you make. It suits history lovers, walkers and wine enthusiasts. The tourist office can supply a map.