Côte des Basques

The Côte des Basques is the long beach below the cliffs on the southern side of Biarritz, and it is the place where surfing first arrived in Europe. The beach faces west into the Atlantic, so it catches the swells rolling across the Bay of Biscay, and the waves here are long and gentle enough for beginners and longboarders, which is why surf schools gather here in the summer. The high cliffs behind it, topped with villas and the old streets of the town, make an impressive backdrop, and the sunsets over the water are famous.

The story of surfing in Biarritz begins in the mid-1950s. The American screenwriter Peter Viertel came to the town while working on a film and brought a surfboard with him, and he and local friends began to ride the waves at the Côte des Basques. The sport grew gradually, and by the following decades Biarritz had become the centre of European surfing, with clubs, competitions and board makers. Today the beach still has a relaxed surf culture, and you can watch the boards at any hour when the swell is up.

The resort itself has a long history. Biarritz was once a whaling village with a few hundred inhabitants, and Victor Hugo visited in 1843, describing it as a charming and beautiful place. Later, the arrival of the empress Eugénie turned it into a fashionable resort, and the beaches were used for sea bathing. The name of the beach, Côte des Basques, the coast of the Basques, recalls the Basque identity of the region.

A practical point: the beach is strongly affected by the tide. At high tide the water can cover almost all the sand, and the beach becomes very narrow, while at low tide a large stretch is exposed. It is worth checking the tide table before you plan a swim or a walk, and following the signs and flags of the lifeguards in season. Reaching the sand involves a path and steps down the cliff, which can be tiring on the way back, so wear suitable shoes. Currents can be strong, and swimmers should stay within the guarded areas.

The beach suits surfers, beginners taking lessons, walkers who like cliff views and anyone looking for a good sunset spot. Access is free. From here you can reach the Rocher de la Vierge, the Grande Plage and the Musée Basque et de l'Histoire de Biarritz on foot, and the Phare de Biarritz is a pleasant walk along the coast.