Cours Julien

The Cours Julien is the most artistic district of Marseille, a long, sloping, tree-lined square in the sixth arrondissement, a short climb from the Old Port, and it is known for its murals, its independent shops and its nightlife. The place was laid out in the nineteenth century as a market, and the space still serves that purpose, with traders setting up stalls on certain mornings. Over the last few decades, it has been transformed into a district of cultural activity, and the walls of the streets around have become a canvas for street artists from Marseille and from around the world.

The street art is what visitors notice first. Murals cover entire building facades, stairways and shutters, in styles from vivid, cartoon-like figures to portraits and abstract patterns, and the paintings change from year to year as new works replace old ones. The tradition grew from the grassroots, with local artists painting on walls on their own initiative, instead of waiting for galleries to show their work, and the area has become one of the best places in France to see urban art. A staircase at the top of the square, painted from top to bottom, is a favourite spot for photographs, and the narrow side streets are full of smaller works and stickers. Visitors can simply wander and look, and it is a free open-air gallery.

The district also has a lively social life. Small independent cafés, bars, record shops, vintage clothes shops, second-hand bookshops, small theatres and workshops line the square and the nearby streets, and the atmosphere is relaxed, cosmopolitan and a bit alternative. In the evening, tables spill onto the pavement, and the area fills with people of all ages, with music coming from many of the venues. It is a popular place for locals to eat and drink, and it gives a view of Marseille as a young, mixed and creative city, a contrast with the grand monuments of the old port. Nearby, the Place Jean-Jaurès, known as La Plaine, has a big market and is another centre of social life.

The church of Notre-Dame du Mont stands on a hill beside the district and has views over the roofs. The Palais Longchamp and the Musée des Beaux-Arts are a short walk to the north-east, while the Vieille Charité, the Panier and the MuCEM are on the other side of the centre. The Basilique du Sacré-Cœur and the Corniche Kennedy complete the city's range of sights, and the Calanques National Park is a short bus ride away.

The area suits art lovers, walkers and night owls. Visit in the afternoon for the light and the evening for the atmosphere. Keep an eye on your belongings in crowds.