Église Notre-Dame du Mont

The Église Notre-Dame du Mont stands on a small hill above the Cours Julien in Marseille's sixth arrondissement, at the top of a flight of steps, and it gives its name to the neighbourhood around it. The quarter, once a village on the edge of the city, is now one of the most lively and artistic parts of Marseille, with cafés, street art, bookshops and a market, and the church is a quiet corner above the bustle. It is not among the best-known monuments of the city, but it has some interesting associations, and its location gives it a view over the rooftops.

There has been a place of worship here for many centuries. According to tradition, an early church dedicated to Saint Stephen stood on the hill, and a later church was built in the sixteenth century. For a time it was known as the church of the seafarers, since sailors who survived shipwrecks came here to give thanks, a tradition that later passed to the great basilica of Notre-Dame de la Garde. During the Revolution, the building was sold, and it was returned to the city in the early nineteenth century. As the population of the district grew, the old church became too small, and it was replaced by a new, larger building constructed in the early 1820s, in a neoclassical style with a plain facade and a bell tower, and it was consecrated by the bishop of Marseille.

The church has a musical story. In 1839, the singer Adolphe Nourrit, one of the great tenors of the Paris Opéra, died in Naples, and his funeral was held in Marseille. Frédéric Chopin, who was a friend of Nourrit, travelled to play the organ at the service, and he is said to have complained about the quality of the instrument. The organ of the church has since been restored and is used for concerts, and the church's musical tradition continues. The building is protected as a historic monument.

The interior is simple and bright, with a nave, side chapels, paintings and statues, and it provides a calm space in a lively part of town. Opening times vary, and the church is open for services and at certain periods during the week, so visitors may need to check locally.

The neighbourhood around the church is a pleasure in itself. The Cours Julien, a long, tree-shaded square lined with cafés, galleries and music venues, is the centre of the area's creative life, and its walls are covered with murals. A market takes place on certain days, with stalls of fruit, vegetables and flowers. The Vieux-Port and the Canebière are a short walk away, and the other sights of the city, among them La Vieille Charité, the MuCEM, the Cathédrale La Major and the Musée Cantini, can be reached on foot or by metro. The Basilique du Sacré-Cœur and the Corniche Kennedy offer sea views.

The church suits those who like to see neighbourhood places and to hear about the people who passed through, and a visit takes about fifteen minutes. Combine it with a coffee on the Cours Julien and a walk through the lanes.