Les Halles de Lyon Paul Bocuse

Les Halles de Lyon Paul Bocuse is the covered market that Lyonnais regard as the temple of their food, and a visit shows quickly why the city is called the gastronomic capital of France. The market stands on the cours Lafayette in the Part-Dieu district, in a modern building that has been its home since the early 1970s, replacing earlier markets in the city. It carries the name of Paul Bocuse, the chef who made Lyon cooking famous around the world, and the renaming was a tribute to a man whose restaurant at Collonges-au-Mont-d'Or north of the city was one of the most celebrated in France for decades.

Inside, about fifty or sixty independent stalls sell the best of French and local produce, and many of the traders have been in the same family for generations. Several are holders of the title Meilleur Ouvrier de France, a prestigious award for craftsmen, and the standards are high. The counters offer cheeses from across France, including the soft, creamy Saint-Marcellin and Saint-Félicien of the Rhône region, cured meats and charcuterie such as the dry sausage called rosette de Lyon, fresh and cooked seafood, pastries, chocolates, fruit and vegetables, and an array of wines. Lyon specialities abound: quenelles, the light pike dumplings served in a creamy sauce, the brioche sausage called saucisson brioché, and the pink praline tart that appears in many local bakeries. A fresh herbed cheese called cervelle de canut is another local favourite.

The market is not only for shopping. Along the aisles are small bars and restaurants where visitors can sit at a counter and eat oysters, charcuterie plates, seafood or hot dishes, accompanied by a glass of wine, and it is a very popular way to have lunch. Locals come to buy for the weekend, to meet friends and to eat, so the atmosphere is lively, especially on Saturday mornings, when it is busiest.

The city has many other attractions to combine with a visit. The Basilica of Notre-Dame de Fourvière and the Cathédrale Saint-Jean-Baptiste lie in the old town across the Saône, the Place Bellecour is the great central square, and the Musée des Beaux-Arts de Lyon, the Musée des Confluences and the Parc de la Tête d'Or give further variety. The Croix-Rousse district recalls the silk weavers, with the Musée des Tissus and the Musée Gadagne telling the history of the city. The Lumière Museum celebrates the cinema inventors.

The market suits food lovers, families and anyone who wants a taste of Lyon. Go hungry, bring cash or cards, and check opening hours before you set out.