Maison de la Tapisserie

Aubusson, in the valley of the Creuse, has been a centre of tapestry weaving for centuries, and the craft is so central to the town's identity that it was added to UNESCO's list of intangible cultural heritage in 2009. The museum now usually called the Cité internationale de la tapisserie, which opened in 2016 in the former national school of decorative arts, is the main place to learn about it. The building is easy to recognise, with a facade of coloured stripes that echo the threads of a loom, and the collection it holds is the largest of its kind in the area.

The story of tapestry in Aubusson goes back to the Middle Ages, when weavers settled in the valley and used the soft water of the river and the wool of local sheep. Workshops multiplied in the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries, and in 1665 the town was given the title of royal manufactory, which confirmed its status. The weavers used the low-warp loom, called basse lisse, on which the weaver works from the back and follows a painted model, or cartoon, placed beneath the warp threads, and the technique allows great subtlety of colour and design. Over time Aubusson tapestries became known across Europe for large pictorial scenes, landscapes and verdure hangings full of foliage and animals.

In the twentieth century, the art was renewed by the painter Jean Lurçat, who came to Aubusson in 1939 and persuaded artists to design bold, simplified cartoons with a limited range of colours. His influence made Aubusson a centre of contemporary tapestry and drew artists such as Picasso and Le Corbusier to produce designs for it, and the museum includes a retrospective of Lurçat's work. The displays range from medieval-inspired hangings to modern abstract pieces, and visitors can see weavers at work, making clear how many hours of labour a single tapestry demands.

The Cité also acts as a centre for training, conservation and new commissions, so the tradition remains active. In the town, the Ateliers de Tapisserie, the weaving workshops, offer visits, the Musée National de la Tapisserie and the Marché d'Aubusson give additional context, and the Vieux Aubusson, a steep old quarter along the river, is a pleasant place to wander. The neighbouring town of Felletin shares the weaving tradition.

Allow one to two hours. It suits craft lovers, art fans and families. Opening times and any live demonstrations vary, so check ahead.