Marché d'Aubusson

The market of Aubusson is a weekly event in a working town. Aubusson lies in a steep, narrow valley of the river Creuse in the Limousin, in central France, and it is one of the most distinctive small towns in the region. Its houses climb the slopes on both sides of the river, with slate roofs and steep alleys, and the sound of water is never far away. Weekly markets, held on set mornings, bring the farmers and producers of the Creuse into town, and it is a good way to meet the area.

The local produce reflects the character of the Limousin, a region of green hills, small farms and woods. The stalls sell vegetables and fruit in season, fresh and aged cheeses, bread, cured meats and prepared dishes, and honey, chestnuts and mushrooms in autumn. Limousin beef, raised on the region's pastures, is among the most renowned in France, and the area is known for dishes such as clafoutis, a baked custard-like dessert made with cherries, and for chestnut products. Visitors who are self-catering can pick up the ingredients for a picnic by the river, and those who are not can find local restaurants.

The market is only part of what makes Aubusson distinctive. The town is the most famous centre of tapestry weaving in France, a craft that has been practised here for centuries and that UNESCO has recognised as part of the intangible cultural heritage of humanity. The Maison de la Tapisserie, which houses the main collection, the Ateliers de Tapisserie, the working weaving workshops, and the Musée National de la Tapisserie all tell the story. Visitors can watch weavers at their looms, translating painted cartoons into large woven works, a task that can take months or even years.

The Vieux Aubusson, the old town, is pleasant to wander, with its steep lanes, old merchant houses and bridges over the Creuse. The neighbouring town of Felletin also has a tapestry tradition and is well worth a visit. The valley and the surrounding hills offer good walking and cycling, and the countryside is quiet and unspoiled.

A morning market followed by a visit to the tapestry sights makes a satisfying day. The market suits food lovers, craft enthusiasts and slow travellers. Because market days and hours may change, check them with the tourist office before travelling.