Marché de Toulon

The market of Toulon is held along the Cours Lafayette, a long, narrow, tree-lined street in the old town, running parallel to the port, and it is the best-known and liveliest market in the city. Toulon is the main base of the French Navy in the Mediterranean, and visitors often associate it with warships and the arsenal, but the market shows a more local and Provençal side of the city. The street is lined with old houses in warm Mediterranean colours, many with shuttered windows, and in the morning the stalls fill the whole length of the cours, with awnings, crates and baskets spilling into the side lanes.

The market sells the produce of Provence in great variety. Fruit and vegetables are its core, with tomatoes, peppers, courgettes, aubergines, melons, figs and citrus fruit according to the season, together with herbs such as thyme, rosemary and basil. Fishmongers offer the catch from local boats, and there are stalls with olives in many varieties, tapenade and other spreads, cheeses, cured meats, bread, honey and flowers. A local speciality is the cade, a flat pancake of chickpea flour baked in a wood oven and served hot, which is a simple, filling snack. Stalls with spices, clothes and household goods also appear, so the market covers both food and everyday items.

The pleasure of the market lies in its atmosphere. Vendors call out their prices, shoppers chat and bargain, and the mixture of languages and accents reflects Toulon's mix of communities from around the Mediterranean. It is a free place to stroll, and it is a good place to watch how people shop and eat. The market is held in the morning, usually every day except Monday, but check the days and times with the tourist office, and arrive early, before the heat and the crowds.

Around the market, the old town of Toulon has other attractions. The Place Puget, with its fountain of three dolphins, the Opéra, a fine nineteenth-century theatre, and the old port quays are within a short walk. The Musée d'Art et d'Histoire de Toulon adds a cultural stop, and the Port de Toulon, with its naval vessels, can be seen from the quay. For the sea, the Promenade du Mourillon, with beaches and the Fort Balaguier, is on the east side of the city.

The market suits food lovers, photographers and anyone who wants to see daily life in a working Mediterranean city. Allow one to two hours, and bring a bag.