Promenade du Mourillon

Le Mourillon is the seaside district of Toulon, a district east of the old port that has the character of a village by the sea, with beaches, parks and a long promenade along the water. Toulon is best known as the main base of the French navy on the Mediterranean, a town of arsenals and warships, and Le Mourillon is where its residents go to relax. A walk along the promenade gives a gentler picture of the city than the port itself, and it is popular with joggers, families, cyclists and strollers throughout the year.

The promenade follows the shore along the Plages du Mourillon, a series of beaches of sand and fine gravel that are lined with palms and pines. The water is clean, and there are lifeguards in summer, showers and cafés along the way. On warm days, the beaches fill with locals, while in winter the promenade is quieter and the light is soft. Its flat, easy route makes it suitable for all ages, and the long views across the roads of Toulon, the great sheltered bay, to the headlands and the open sea beyond are a pleasure at any time. Sunsets from the promenade can be spectacular, and ships of the navy sometimes pass in the distance.

Le Mourillon also has historical interest. At the western end of the district, the Tour Royale, a round stone tower built at the beginning of the sixteenth century under Louis XII to guard the entrance to the harbour, stands on the shore, and the Fort Saint-Louis, built in the seventeenth century, lies nearby. These fortifications are a reminder of the military importance of Toulon, which was besieged in 1793, when the young artillery officer Napoleon Bonaparte first won attention by directing the capture of the heights that commanded the bay. The district itself has a village feel, with narrow streets, small squares and cafés, and a lively market where stalls sell Provençal fruit, vegetables, olives, fish, flowers and other produce.

After a stroll, there are plenty of places to eat. Restaurants near the sea serve Provençal fish soup, grilled fish and seafood, as well as pizzas and ice cream, and the cafés along the beach are popular for aperitifs. The district's pace is relaxed, and it feels a world away from the busy centre of Toulon, though the port is only a short bus ride away. The Mont Faron, a hill that rises behind the city and can be reached by cable car, offers views over the entire bay.

The promenade suits families, walkers and anyone who wants a taste of everyday Provençal life by the sea. It is free and open every day, and it is best enjoyed in the morning or late afternoon, when the light is soft and the temperature is mild. In the height of summer, the beaches are crowded, so come early. The Toulon tourist office can provide information on events and the market schedule.