Montenvers Railway

The Montenvers Railway is the oldest way to reach the Mer de Glace, the largest glacier in France, and the journey is a highlight of any stay in Chamonix. The red train climbs from the station in Chamonix, at roughly a thousand metres, to the Montenvers terminus at about 1,900 metres, using a rack-and-pinion system for the steep sections. The line opened in 1908, and its carriages and station building preserve some of the character of that period. The ride lasts around twenty minutes and passes through larch and spruce forest, with openings that look across the valley to the peaks.

The viewpoint at Montenvers has attracted visitors for almost three centuries. Two English travellers, William Windham and Richard Pococke, reached the glacier in 1741 and described its vast frozen surface, which they compared to a sea of ice, and their account helped establish Chamonix as a destination. In the nineteenth century the Montenvers hotel and mule paths made it an essential stop for travellers on the Grand Tour, and artists, scientists and writers came to see the glacier. Today's visitors follow in their footsteps, with a much faster ascent.

From the terminus, the panorama opens on to the Mer de Glace, a long river of ice flowing down from the high basin below the Grandes Jorasses, and to the granite spires of the Aiguilles, including the Dru and the Aiguille Verte. The glacier has retreated markedly in recent decades, and one of the most striking things at Montenvers is the evidence of that change. Markers along the path show where the surface of the ice stood in earlier years, and the descent to the glacier requires many more steps than it did in the past. A cable car carries visitors down to the entrance of the ice grotto, a tunnel carved into the ice each year, and the gallery of glaciers and the small exhibition spaces at the top explain the science of glaciers and climate change.

Planning matters. The train runs daily but with seasonal changes, and operations may pause for maintenance or in bad weather, so check the timetable and book ahead in summer. Wear sturdy shoes, bring layers because it is cooler at altitude than in the valley, and take sunglasses and water. The visit takes between two and four hours, depending on whether you walk to the ice cave or hike on the nearby trails. Families with young children can enjoy the train ride and the view without the long descent.

The railway pairs well with other mountain experiences from Chamonix, such as the Aiguille du Midi cable car, Le Brévent and the Chamonix Valley's walking trails. In the town you can visit the Musée Alpin, the market and the Place du Triangle. The railway suits families, photographers and anyone who wants a close view of a glacier without high-mountain skills, and it works as a half-day outing.